The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
We quitted Sheikh Adi in the course of the forenoon, the young prior
accompanying us to the monastery gate in order to bid us farewell. He
would accept no payment for our entertainment, representing that it was
the custom of the monastery to keep open house for its visitors;[57] but
"out of love for us he could not refuse" the gift that we proffered
instead. We followed a very steep and rugged pathway, clambering out of
the glen up the hillside immediately opposite; and from the notch at the
summit we got our last view of that unhallowed Hoodoo House, and saw
once more to the southward the ocean-like levels of Mosul.
Being now so deeply entered in devilry we had resolved to top off our
orgy by paying our respects to the Satanic Pontiff, Ali Beg the _Mira_
of the Yezidis, whose home lay close to our road. A descent even rougher
than the ascent led us down to the terrace of heath land from which the
mountains arise; and here, on a sort of cape jutting out over the lower
plain country, we came upon the _Mira's_ castle--a large defensible
house with a walled courtyard. A beautifully clear little river issues
from a spring just above it, and girdles the base of the hill on which
the "castle" stands; and along the banks of the stream lies the Yezidi
village of Baadri, one of their principal settlements in the district of
Sheikhan.
The castle seemed pretty well garrisoned; for plenty of men were in
evidence when we dismounted in the courtyard. But it is only constructed
of _jess_ work; and the cracks which showed conspicuously in the walls
of the _Mira's_ reception room suggested that repairs were getting a bit
overdue.
This _diwan khana_ is a good-sized vaulted chamber; and its whitewashed
walls were scrawled all over with rough pencil drawings of steam-boats
and locomotives; as though the _Mira's_ visitors had been trying to
explain to him the nature of these monstrosities, neither of which can
be seen within a journey of ten days. The room was empty when we
entered, but the _Mira_ appeared almost immediately, and seated us
beside him on the dais at the end.
The High Priest of the Devil is a pronounced Anglophil,[58] a fact which
will doubtless be deemed significant by our country's continental
friends. He is also on terms of traditional amity with Mar Shimun, the
Catholicos of the "Nestorian" Christians; for though the Christians
abhor the "Devil Worshippers" most piously, both _millets_ are driven
into sympathy by the common oppression of the Kurds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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