The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
The place must be a furnace in summer time, for the _cirque_ faces due
southward; the tawny precipices are completely destitute of vegetation,
and must radiate the heat mercilessly all round that breathless pit. In
the caves would lurk such coolness as was going; but the lack of water
must have been a sore trial in summer. Hermits, however, are generally
credited with requiring a very moderate supply.
The cells lie some way up the ramp, and are reached by a steep zigzag
pathway. How many of them there may be we do not pretend to guess; but
we think we may safely say hundreds; for they extend laterally for
several hundred yards along the concave sweep of the corrie, and (like
the port-holes of an old line-of-battle ship) they are ranged up in tier
above tier. They are not of any uniform pattern, like the older
hermitages at Dara; and some few (probably those which have been most
recently occupied) are furnished with windows and doors. A series of
narrow pathways and rude rock staircases strings the whole assortment
together, and by these the solitaries were enabled to assemble at their
church.
Here and there the main pathway is barred by the erection of a rude
arched gateway: but the only real building is the church, which is
terraced out on a buttress of rock. This church is comparatively modern,
dating from about 1500; but behind it, jammed against the face of the
cliff, is another and much older church erected in the ninth or tenth
century, and adorned with some nice bits of carving somewhat similar to
the Runic work of our own land. Behind this again, excavated in the rock
itself, is the veritable cell of Rabban Hormizd--a chamber some eight
feet square, and approached by a sort of winding rabbit burrow. The
original door and window of this cell are now closed, the church having
been built up against it; and the grave of the hermit is placed in one
of the walls, at a spot which is situated immediately behind the altar.
The church of Rabban Hormizd is very much "Lord of Name," that is it
enjoys great repute as a place of pilgrimage; and the virtue for which
it is chiefly celebrated is the healing of the insane, or (as they are
more commonly called in this country) the "possessed." The lunatic
(often quite willing) is solemnly conducted to the church, and is
tethered up in it for the night with a ponderous iron chain and collar
affixed to a staple in the wall.[72] By morning (unless he is very mad
indeed) he will usually profess himself cured. Quite a number of other
mountain churches can boast a similar reputation, but their methods of
treatment (as will be hereafter related) are often more drastic still.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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