The Cultivation and Manufacture of Tea — John Shaqi
The Cultivation and Manufacture of TeaMoney, Edward
Science
The Cultivation and Manufacture of Tea
Money, Edward
Tea
It will thus be seen that the advocates of both plans have much to urge
in their respective favours. Which is better?
The advocates of each plan are guided by the climate they have planted
Tea in, and the truth is simply that the better plan for one place is
not adapted to another. Planting _in situ_ where it will succeed is
by far the cheaper and better, and it will do so wherever there are
certainly cold weather and spring rains. Thus (see rain table) it will
often succeed in Assam, Cachar, Darjeeling, the Western Dooars, and
perhaps the Terai below Darjeeling. It will fail in Chittagong, Dehra
Dhoon, Kumaon, Kangra, and Hazareebaugh. In Chittagong, for instance,
a garden could never be made by planting _in situ_, or, as it is
generally called, at stake.[20]
In this and other matters adapt your operations to the existing climate.
I will now describe the above two methods of sowing seed.
FOOTNOTE:
[20] In no climate is the success of it certain, for early rains often
fail, and then it is all loss. I would, therefore, in all cases advise
nurseries in reserve.
CHAPTER XII.
SOWING SEED IN SITU, ID EST, AT STAKE.
It is named “at stake” because stakes are put along in lines to show
where the Tea trees are to be, and the seed is sown at those spots.
The _modus operandi_ is very simple. A month before the sowing time
(which should be as soon as you can get the seed), at each stake dig a
hole at least 9 inches diameter and 12 inches deep, put the soil taken
out on the sides, taking care, however, if it be on a slope, to put
none _above_ the hole. Do not put the soil near enough to the pit to
make it likely it will be washed back. Such soil as should be washed in
ought to be the new rich surface soil. For this reason the upper side
of the hole should be left free on slopes. The pits are made a month
beforehand to admit of this, and to allow the action of the air on the
open sides to improve the mould.
If lucky enough to have one or two falls of rain during the month, the
holes will be more or less filled up with soil eminently calculated
to instigate rapid growth. Just before sowing fill up the pit with
surrounding _surface_ soil. Whether to mix a little manure with it
or not is a question. If it is virgin soil, and rich in decayed
vegetation, I say no; if not virgin soil, and rather poor, yes; but it
must be strictly in moderation--not more, say, than a man can hold in
both hands to each hole. In filling up the hole, press the soil down
lightly two or three times, or it will all sink later, and your seeds
be far too deep.
When the above is all done, there is a perfect spot for the reception
of the seed. The tap-root can readily descend in search of moisture,
and the lateral rootlets can spread likewise. They (the latter) will
not reach the outer walls of the pit for six months, and will then be
strong enough to force their way through.
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