The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: An Entertaining History: (Illustrated with over Fifty Quaint Cuts)Bickerdyke, John
History
The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: An Entertaining History: (Illustrated with over Fifty Quaint Cuts)
Bickerdyke, John
Drinking customs; Drinking songs
Dr. Plot, in his _Natural History of Staffordshire_ (1685), describes
a curious custom called the Hobby-horse dance, which he says had been
practised at Pagets Bromley within memory of persons living when he
wrote. On Twelfth Day a man on a hobby-horse used to dance down the
village street, holding in his hand a bow and arrow, and accompanied by
six men, carrying deers’ heads on their shoulders. “To this Hobby-horse
dance,” says our author, “there also belong’d a _pot_, which was kept
by turnes by 4 or 5 of the _chief_ of the _Tow_, whom they call’d
_Reeves_, who provided _Cakes_ and _Ale_ to put in this _pot_; all
people who had any kindness for the good intent of the Institution of
the _sport_, giving pence a piece for themselves and families; and so
_forraigners_ too, that came to see it: with which mony (the charge
of the _Cakes_ and _Ale_ being defrayed) they not only repaired their
_Church_ but {240} kept their _poore_ too: which _charges_ are not now
perhaps so cheerfully boarn.”
It would be going too far from the special subject of this work
to detail the more elaborate festivities of the Court and the
Universities, or the masques and revels of those ancient abodes of
legal learning, the Inns of Court, where Twelfth Night formed the
annual excuse for much feasting and pageantry. On these occasions,
no doubt, costly wines and liqueurs formed the staple of the liquids
consumed,
Both Ippocras and Vernage wine
Mount Rose and wine of Greek,
and not the honest juice of barley. Suffice it to note in passing
that on the 2nd of February, 1601, John Manningham, a student of the
Middle Temple, records in his Diary: “At our feast we had a play called
_Twelfth Night or What You Will_.” This is the earliest recorded
mention of that grand Twelfth-night revel, and was, perhaps, its first
performance.
The appearance of Twelfth Cake is the signal for the disappearance of
mince pies, in accordance with the farewell words an old carolist puts
into the mouth of Christmas:—
Mark well my heavy doleful tale,
For Twelfth-day now is come,
And now I must no longer stay
And say no word but mum.
For I, perforce, must take my leave
Of all my dainty cheer—
Plum porridge, roast beef, and minced-pies,
My strong ale and my beer.
A minor festival, Plough Monday, used to be celebrated on the first
Monday after Twelfth Night. A plough, dressed up with ribbons by the
villagers, was taken round from house to house. Its escort consisted of
a number of rustics dressed up in various mummers’ guises, and chanting
verses, the text of which was “God speed the Plough.” The principal
performers were Bessy and the Clown, Bessy being, in fact, a man
dressed up in fantastic female weeds. Bread, cheese, and ale were asked
for at the farmhouses and seldom refused, and a variety of curious
dances and uncouth antics completed the entertainment of the day. {241}
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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