Beyond Weissenkirchen, the Danube takes a southerly turn round abrupt,
bare and sometimes precipitous rocks. On the right is soon seen a flat
valley with the roofs of Rossatz; and directly ahead stands, from the
sheer escarpment of the rock as it were, one of the places which most
nearly in its traditions touches our English history, though even
its name may not be known to any large proportion of those familiar
with some details of the story it has to tell. This is Dürnstein
or Dürrenstein, a small town between the face of the rocky cliffs
and the river, with above it, striking from any point of view, the
time-battered ruins of the castle in which it is said Richard Cœur
de Lion passed fifteen months of weary imprisonment during the years
1192-4.
[Illustration: WEISSENKIRCHEN]
Seen as we approach Dürrenstein down the river, the view is singularly
fine. To the left of the town is a sheer mass of precipitous rock of
all tones of yellow, where the cliff has been split away to cut the
railroad. The crows wheeling about its jagged edge “show scarce so
gross as beetles.” From the group of old red-and-white buildings other
jagged lines of rock and wall slant upwards, leading the eye to the
ruined castle where they meet. At the back of the town, even within
these “walls” are seen the narrow vineyard terraces, sometimes on
scraps of ground that seem scarcely accessible to the cultivator.
A traveller of many years ago said: “Of all the strongholds yet
noticed in our passage from Ulm, it takes undisputed precedence; and
he who can pass with indifference the many feudal and monastic ruins
which overlook the course of the Danube, will pause with uplifted eye
and awakened imagination, as the rock-built towers of Dürrenstein
flash upon his view. Its massive walls, embattled precipices and iron
towers that survive the lapse of centuries, were of themselves amply
sufficient to arrest attention and engage the stranger to pass a day
within their gates; but when he recollects that yonder donjon tower was
the prison of Cœur de Lion, a new chord is touched in his heart--more
especially in that of an Englishman--and as he passes under its
ponderous gateway and muses in its grass-grown and deserted courts, he
feels as if acted upon by some mysterious influence--as if an invisible
conductor beckoned him forward--as if the old kingly crusader himself
accosted him with ‘Quhat tydings from England?’”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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