If I cannot claim to have felt the spirit of the place in that fashion,
it may be because seventy years have reduced the ruins to a yet more
ruinous state, and so the illusion that the king might still be here
anxious for “tydings” is little likely to arise. Though the little
town itself is attractive, it is of course the ruined fortress that
makes the strongest appeal, historically and sentimentally, to the
British visitor. Whether approached by way of the scattered rocks on
the eastern side, or by the pathway which leads from near within the
“ponderous gateway” (to the town, not to the castle) up to the ruins,
we find ourselves on the conical summit of rugged rock standing out at
the end of a mountain spur among the sadly battered remains of the old
castle. Here and there are great pieces of wall still standing, but
the whole is in a time-battered, broken state which makes it difficult
to recall the plan of the place. One tall piece of wall looks afar
off curiously like a gigantic figure, and near at hand but little
imagination is necessary to see in it the figure of the great crusader
himself!
The view from the castle ruins up the river towards Weissenkirchen
across to the mountain-surrounded level on which Rossatz stands and
down-stream across a hemmed-in vine-grown battlefield towards Vienna,
with the great monastery of Gottweih on a conical hill in the distance,
is a most attractive one; while between the ruins and the mountains is
a narrow gorge, with beyond it the jagged edge of the extraordinary
rock mass where a large part of it was blasted to make the railway
which now runs though the hill on which Dürrenstein Castle stands. In
the centre of the ruins is a gigantic, more or less roughly cubic, mass
of granite out of which a windowless chamber has been roughly hewn,
and here, says tradition, is the veritable prison in which Richard was
confined by his implacable enemy, Duke Leopold of Austria.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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