Though some distance from the river, the monastery forms so striking
an object in the scenery that there are few visitors with the time at
their command but will wish to journey out to it, and see the grand
buildings, the fine church, the library, and the magnificent prospect
afforded from the splendidly situated place.
Returning to the Danube, and crossing the bridge of iron laid upon
stone piers we come to Stein. The most notable features that first
take the eye are the two churches, the one red cupola spired, with
steep red-tiled roof, the other with a massive white tower showing
clearly against the vineyard terraces which lie closely at the back
of the narrow town, and a curious old tower with crooked tiled roof
near the water-side. The ancient towered, Dutch-like church stands on
the Frauenberg immediately above the newer one, and is reached by a
long flight of steps. Near it are scraps of old ruins--stone walls and
arches, worked largely into cottages and garden walls, while further
west, with modern cottages built among them, are the ruins of an old
castle destroyed by Matthias Corvinus in 1486--for Stein, too, has seen
its share of fighting. From the neighbourhood of the ruins we get a
good view of Gottweih on its rounded hill to the south.
Stein is practically linked with Krems, though each retains its
gateway. The buildings--military and other--between the two towns,
really form a third place named Und which has occasioned the pleasantry
that “Krems Und Stein are three places.” Possibly Krems and Stein
being such close neighbours that they were frequently referred to as
Krems und Stein led to the name Und being fastened upon the connecting
link which consisted at one time of nothing but the Capuchin monastery
of Und. As we leave Stein there is to be noticed, painted up at the
gateway, the words:--
“An Gottes Segen ist alles gelegen.”
(“By God’s blessing all have their opportunity.”)
It seemed rather a suggestive motto to be blazoned in the eyes of the
convicts who were engaged in building close by at the time that I was
there. By a short promenade under trees we reach the tall picturesque
gateway of Krems, the eastern-most end of the wonderful Wachau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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