Krems is a delightful old town--the largest on the Danube between
Linz and Vienna. It is particularly attractive when seen in a state
of animation consequent upon the arrival of a force of new recruits,
welcomed by all the townspeople, and by the cheering bands of their
more experienced comrades, or when the Pfarr Platz is crowded with
a motley throng of people on market day, when the Platz is filled
with stalls, largely extemporized from a couple of the quaint, bowed,
legless barrows on which the peasants trundle their wares to market.
Bread and meat, vegetables, fowls and dairy produce, and quantities of
beautiful white wood utensils are the chief things for sale; and among
them moves an ever-changing crowd of kerchiefed women. Above the throng
rises the great grey church with massive tower.
[Illustration: THE MARKET PLACE, KREMS]
To the north of this fifteenth century parish church, is another
church, on the Frauenberg, and leaving the busy market by the beautiful
corner of the Sängerhof, up a long flight of roofed-in steps (the
Piarristen Stiege), we reach this old edifice, the most remarkable
feature of which is the extraordinary series of sculptured figures with
painted backgrounds, representing scenes in the life of Christ, between
the external piers.
There are many old-world bits about the town, which appears to combine
picturesque age with modern prosperity, while tragedy and romance
are both revealed when we inquire into the story of Krems. One of
the earliest mentions made of it is in connexion with one of those
fanatical outbursts which ever and again stain the page of history.
We saw at Deggendorf how a wild story of sacrilege led to a horrible
slaughter of the Jews in that place, and in 1347 there was a similar
outbreak here, when it is said the streets ran with blood. It may be
surmised that the wealth the Jews had acquired moved the cupidity of
their fellow-townsfolk. The pretext chosen was, however, that the Jews
had poisoned the town wells, but that the other motive was regarded as
the real one by the persecuted, may be gathered from the fact that many
of the Hebrews “made their despair minister to their vengeance, and
barring up themselves, their family and their riches together, set fire
to the building and perished exultingly in the flames that anticipated
the spoiler.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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