The bare rocks, white and grey, sometimes rising sheer from the deep
water, sometimes with steep slopes covered with high beech, oak, and
walnut forests; the winding road along the left, successively take
the eye and impress the memory with a series of wonderful pictures. At
times it reminded me of some of the gorges in the Canadian rockies,
in the way in which it presents “in the most striking combination,
all those qualities, features and appearances which are the essential
constituents of sublimity in natural landscape”; and it is made the
more impressive by the knowledge that it has been a centre of the
struggles between East and West, that it was one of the routes, the
seemingly insurmountable difficulties of which were conquered by the
indomitable Romans. We see in imagination the narrow path along which
toiling slaves must have passed dragging the heavy boats against the
powerful current. History adds its glamour to a scene that is naturally
grand.
Near the village of Dubova on the Hungarian side, the Danube reaches
its narrowest point for many hundreds of miles--not much wider than
it is at far distant Ulm--the bases of the massive rocks reaching so
near that as we approach they seem, as above Visegrád though far more
grandly, to form the end of a land-locked lake. The passage is reduced
to a hundred and twenty yards where the river has forced its way
through the rocky barrier here, and looking back, the scene is no less
strikingly fine than as we approached. Such a scene as this might well
have been in Shelley’s mind when he wrote: “I have sailed down mighty
rivers, and seen the sun rise and set, and the stars come forth, whilst
I have sailed night and day down a rapid stream among mountains”; or
when he described--
“The vast ravine whose rifts did pour
Tumultuous floods from their ten thousand fountains.”
After passing this narrowest part, the channel begins to widen out
immediately. The mountains on the left begin to fall away, and as
we emerge from the gorge we have the Hungarian village of Ogradena
on the left, and, opposite, a large tablet, cut on the face of the
precipitous rock, which is a direct link with the Roman occupation of
this territory nearly two thousand years ago. It is not possible, as
the steamer bears us swiftly down the stream, to see the details of
the time-worn inscription, which is supposed to commemorate at once
the completion of the wonderful river-side road from near Orsova to
Galambócz (Golubacz), and the Dacian campaign of the year 103. The
inscription--amid much defaced ornamentation--has been read as--
IMP. CÆS. D. NERVÆ. FILIUS. NERVA. TRAJANUS.
AUG. GERM. PONT. MAX....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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