This tablet seems to bridge the years in a strange fashion; to make
more real to us the extraordinary performance of the first of the great
civilizing powers of the Western world. The position of this wonderful
road of the Roman past indicates that the volume of the Danube waters
has changed but little during the lapse of a couple of thousand years,
and it makes us marvel “how the Romans by sheer manual labour contrived
to open a military thoroughfare along the face of this tremendous
gorge.” Wonderful as is the Széchenyi road along the left bank, made in
days when explosives could be utilized, it is less wonderful than the
earlier achievement along the right bank. It was suggested when “the
great Hungarian” began his road, that it should have been made along
the Servian side, on the course of the old Roman way. But for one or
two points--such as the Kazán defile--the undertaking would certainly
appear less formidable. Perhaps when Servia becomes more progressive,
takes on something of the activity of her neighbour across the river,
the work may be undertaken, and the right bank opened up as the left
has been.
Leaving the Kazán, the river valley opens out widely on the Hungarian
side, while on the Servian the sloping hills recede somewhat from the
river, leaving space for a few cottages dotted here and there among the
trees. Some way ahead, the hills are seen again seemingly shutting in
the river, with against them, in the middle distance, the towers and
roofs of Orsova.
This scattered town, with its broad roads, its tree-grown front,
exercises a peculiar fascination over the visitor. It is not
particularly beautiful in itself, it has no interest-compelling
associations, no buildings of great importance, and yet--it grows on
one. It is true that it is beautifully situated near the junction of
the river Cerna with the Danube, that the views up towards the Kazán
and down to Ada Kaleh, and across the broad swift-running river to the
Servian hills, are all fine.
Miss F. M. F. Skene, returning by way of the Danube in 1847 after a
number of years spent in Greece, wrote on arriving at Orsova: “There is
a certain little town, named Varenna, lying on the brink of the Lake of
Como and looking down coquettishly on its own fair image reflected in
that pure mirror, which used to be my beau ideal of a quiet retreat,
for one wearied of the world and its follies; but as soon as I had seen
this little, romantic, smiling Orsova, I abandoned my former favourite,
feeling that nowhere else had I seen a spot at once so bright and
peaceful. It is assuredly a very lovely place.” Echoing the man who was
no orator as his colleague was, I feel inclined to say “ditto” to Miss
Skene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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