From the time of the Romans onwards, from the time when our authentic
chronicles begin, this mighty river has along its many hundreds of
miles been the scene of so much history-making that to present the full
story of the Danube would be to re-tell a large part of the history
of the Continent during two thousand years. Such, it need scarcely be
said, is not my aim or intention. To bring within the compass of a
single volume some indication of the manifold beauties of the river,
some hint of the romance that attaches to its castled crags, its
villages, towns and cities, some suggestion of the great happenings of
the past, some hint of the fascination of the present, is all that I
can hope to do. And even so I am primarily concerned with presenting
something of the story of the “scenic” Danube--that great stretch of
the river which runs from near Ratisbon in Bavaria to the Iron Gate
between Rumania and Servia, the stretch of which, from voyaging in
steamers, from tramping along the river-side roads, and from journeying
along it by railway, I have a personal knowledge. In applying the word
“scenic” to this greater part of the great river, it is not intended
to suggest that the upper waters above Kelheim and the lower waters
below the Iron Gate have not also much to offer the traveller, but the
portion indicated is that which comprises the most famously picturesque
parts of the Danube. It includes the beautiful mountainous stretches
above and below Passau in Bavaria and Austria, where the river runs at
the foot of the southern slopes of the Böhmer Wald; it includes the
wonderful Wachau of Lower Austria, and the finely varied extent of the
Hungarian Danube, with the grand Kazan defile, where the river forms
a natural barrier between Hungary and Servia. Along the greater part
of the great extent which lies between the limits named, comfortable
passenger steamers run all through the summer season, and in these
steamers the traveller may continue through Rumania and Bulgaria down
to the Black Sea, and all the colour and glamour of the Orient. In the
upper parts of the river, before we can get afloat on it, the Danube is
as it were but an incident in the scenery, but, when once we reach the
parts navigable by passenger steamers, the scenery becomes the setting
or framework for the mighty stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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