Kelheim, backed by the forest, is on the low land at the foot of the
hill on which the Befreiungshalle stands, and at the junction of the
Altmühl with the Danube. Here too the Ludwig Canal which joins the
Main with the Danube, reaches the latter river, thus, as it were,
enislanding the town. Kelheim is an old place with remains of an old
Roman tower, a castle of the Dukes of Bavaria, now used for government
offices, and other visible evidences of its one-time importance. From
Kelheim to Ratisbon is about twenty miles--the railway keeps fairly
close to the river for most of the distance--of pleasant scenery
along the winding stream. The first half of the journey is flat, the
second between low hills. Opposite Kapfelberg with its limestone
quarries on the left bank--whence was taken the stone of which Ratisbon
cathedral and bridge are built--is the Teufelsfelsen. Shortly before
reaching Abbach on the right is to be seen the memorial erected in
1794 to commemorate the making of the road along the river here. This
memorial takes the form of a large tablet inscription on the rock
face, with in front, on the bank raised upon massive pedestals, two
large couchant lions carved in stone, “one looking into the river, the
other apparently trying to make out the inscription.” Abbach itself is
an attractive village amid greenery dominated by its slender-spired
church, with the remains of an ancient castle--one of the “common
objects” of a long Danube journey. This is Heinrichsburg, or King
Henry’s Castle and is interesting as the birthplace of Henry the Second
(canonized for his many benefactions to the Church) and as one of the
seats of his splendour as King of Germany and Holy Roman Emperor.
In his age the monarch turned to the consolations of religion, in
expiation it is suggested in the following lines of earlier crimes:
“With guilt and grief oppressed, to soothe his pain,
The leech prescribed--but he prescribed in vain.
Then came the priest. ‘Arise,’ quoth he, ‘unshod
In pilgrim weeds approach the house of God!
There, prostrate to St. Emmeram, confess
How thou hast revelled in unrighteousness--
Denied thy heart nought that thy heart could crave!
And ask his help to snatch thee from the wave
Of heavenly wrath! Nor grudge, if he demands
Some small accession to our Abbey lands;
That gift alone shall purge away thy crimes,
Blessed in thy life, renowned through after times,
_If for each crime one acre thou wilt pay_.’
‘An acre! saidst thou? By our lady, nay!
If thus I pay--priest! Where were my domains!
Thy cowl, methinks, might cover what remains!’”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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