Coming down from the peaceful ruins to the village again, we may
take one of two ways to the Walhalla, going straight on to the east
where the front of the giant Grecian temple is seen above the trees
on the brow of the hill to the left, and climbing the many steps to
the front; or taking the left turning where the road forks, and going
past the little hillside church of St. Salvator--built, it is said, in
expiation of the sacrilegious crime of some soldiers, who dishonoured
the Host--through woodland paths reach the western columned side of
the great edifice, and come more or less suddenly on what is, if
the weather be clear, a grand “surprise” view. Behind us the oak
woodland, in front the magnificent Parthenon-like white building,
standing on the brow of the hill--
“A sumptuous frontispiece appeared
On Doric pillars of white marble reared.”
And to the right, green and turf and a view across the Bavarian plain.
On a fine day the view is one to arrest the attention, while the grand
building with its columned exterior is so satisfying to the eye, that
we may well feel inclined to linger about before entering the great
hall. Approaching from the back, we pass under the arcade of columns to
the front, where massy tiers of steps lead down the hill to the river.
From the front here is a magnificent view if kindly weather
prevails--its extent could be gauged even on such a grey wet day as
that on which I visited it. The building stands three hundred and
fifteen feet above the river--not in itself a great height--but the
southern bank is the beginning of a great far-stretching plain, and
it is said that, in the most favourable climatic conditions (which so
rarely obtain in such cases) the distant Alps can be seen. Even if
it fall short of that, the view is sufficiently extensive across the
plain, back to Ratisbon and down the winding stream, island-divided,
towards Straubing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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