PAGE PREFACE v I THE UPPER DANUBE CHAP. I. FROM DONAUESCHINGEN TO DONAUWÖRTH 3 II. DONAUWÖRTH TO RATISBON 17 III. RATISBON TO PASSAU 49 II THE AUSTRIAN DANUBE IV. PASSAU TO LINZ 75 V. LINZ TO THE WACHAU 99 VI. THE WACHAU 129 VII. THE WACHAU TO DÉVÉNY 159 III THE HUNGARIAN DANUBE VIII. FROM THE OLD CAPITAL TO THE NEW 185 IX. THE HUNGARIAN CAPITAL 204 X. BUDAPEST TO BELGRADE 222 XI. BELGRADE TO ORSOVA 243 IV THE LOWER DANUBE XII. THE IRON GATE TO RUSTZUK 269 XIII. RUSTZUK TO THE BLACK SEA 288 INDEX 309 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS WEITENEGG CASTLE FROM THE WEITENBACH (_in colour_) _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE RATISBON 28 THE WALHALLA (_in colour_) 42 OBERHAUS AND NIEDERHAUS, PASSAU 76 THE STRUDEL (_in colour_) 110 ST. NIKOLA 120 SARMINGSTEIN 122 PERSENBEUG 126 MÖLK (_in colour_) 130 AGGSTEIN (_in colour_) 134 THE DEVIL’S WALL 138 SPITZ VINEYARDS 140 WEISSENKIRSCHEN 142 DÜRRENSTEIN 148 DÜRRENSTEIN CASTLE 152 STEIN 154 THE MARKET PLACE, KREMS (_in colour_) 156 VIENNA FROM LEOPOLDSBERG (_in colour_) 174 THE CATHEDRAL, POZSONY 188 GRAN (_in colour_) 200 THE PALACE, BUDAPEST (_in colour_) 216 BOATS FROM SZEGEDIN 230 BELGRADE 240 OLD TURKISH FORT, SEMENDRIA (_in colour_) 244 BÁZIÁS 246 RAMA CASTLE (_in colour_) 250 THE KAZAN (_in colour_) 256 THE CROWN CHAPEL, ORSOVA 260 A CAFÉ IN ADA KALEH 262 THE IRON GATE 272 “The Danuby, the river sometimes of our merry passage” SIR HENRY WOTTON I THE UPPER DANUBE THE DANUBE CHAPTER I FROM DONAUESCHINGEN TO DONAUWÖRTH