North-east of Straubing--in which general direction the devious river
flows for some distance--is to be seen the pyramidal Bogenberg about
half a dozen miles away. Before reaching it, however, the river
receives some further of the many small tributaries that flow down from
the Wald, and passes several pleasant, but not otherwise remarkable
villages, notably, where the little Aitrach comes in from the south,
the triplet-village of Unter-, Mittel-, and Ober-Öbling. The beautiful
hills are here again closer to the river on the left, while the plain
on the right becomes more diversified. The first place of interest is
found shortly before the point at which the railway from Straubing
crosses the Danube to Bogen, where on the left stand the conspicuous
buildings of the ancient Benedictine monastery of Ober-Altaich. So many
were the Benedictine establishments along this river that Schultes,
in his “Handbuch für Reisende auf der Donau,” published nearly a
century ago, coming to describe one of them wrote: “‘So soon another!’
I think I hear the traveller and the reader exclaim, who may not be
acquainted with the magnitude of this Order.” And he then goes on to
summarize thus, in a way to delight those with a taste for statistical
tit-bits, the number of notables who had belonged to the Benedictine
Order up to the time of Hemmauer: “Sixty-three popes, two hundred and
twenty-three cardinals, two hundred and fifty-five patriarchs, sixteen
thousand archbishops, forty-six thousand bishops, twenty-one emperors,
twenty-five empresses, forty-eight kings, fifty-four queens, one
hundred and forty-six imperial and royal children, and four hundred and
forty-five sovereign princes and dukes.”
The “Kloster” of Ober-Altaich was first founded in the eighth century
by a duke who brought Benedictines from Reichenau to people it, and
it was built where a chapel had been erected earlier by “the Holy
Parminius.” Here, still earlier, had stood a Druidical altar, and
Parminius, having destroyed it and with his own hands cut down its
sheltering oak, built the chapel which was succeeded by the first
Kloster. That was destroyed by the Hungarians in 907, and a couple
of centuries passed before it was rebuilt by the Count of Bogen and
started on a long period of continuous prosperity. When the Thirty
Years’ War was devastating so much of the Continent, Ober-Altaich was
not spared, for in 1634 it was destroyed by the Swedes, only to rise,
phœnix-like, more splendid than before, thanks to the wealth possessed
by the monks. The fresco-paintings in the monastery church illustrate
the old-time feeling against Lutheranism, for “monks are drawn
exorcising Straubing, and Luther is seen running away in the shape of
an unclean spirit, riding on a hog, with the Bible under his arm, a
sausage in one hand, and a beer glass in the other.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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