The present extensive buildings were erected in the eighteenth century,
but the crypt is said to date from the thirteenth. St. Florian’s,
which has a valuable library of many thousand volumes, was visited
by Dr. Dibdin during his famous “Bibliographical Tour,” and was
described by him with enthusiasm. In the remarkable abbey church he was
particularly struck by the “gorgeous and imposing” organ; “the pipes
have completely the appearance of polished silver; and the woodwork is
painted white, richly relieved with gold. For size and splendour I had
never seen anything like it. The _tout ensemble_ was perfectly magical.
On entering, the organ burst forth with a power of intonation--every
stop being opened--such as I have never heard exceeded--as there were
only a few present, the sounds were necessarily increased, by being
reverberated from every part of the building; and for a moment it
seemed as if the very dome would have been unroofed, and the sides
burst asunder. We looked up then at each other, lost in surprise,
delight, and admiration. We could not hear a word that was spoken; when
in some few seconds the diapason stop only was opened, and how sweet,
how touching was the melody which it imparted!”
Tillysberg, two or three miles to the east of St. Florian’s monastery,
takes its name from the great little Austrian soldier to whom it
was presented in 1623, by the Emperor in whose cause he had been
“atrociously successful.” The old castle which stood earlier on the
site had for centuries been the property of warrior nobles, but Tilly
demolished it, erecting (1630-32) in its place a large square building
with four towers and as many windows as there are days in the year. The
building was scarcely completed, when Tilly was mortally wounded, as we
saw in an earlier chapter, in seeking to stay the victorious progress
of Gustavus Adolphus, at a point some hundreds of miles further up the
Danube. This great soldier and implacable foe of Protestantism was a
remarkable person, described as follows by Schiller: “His strange and
terrific aspect was in unison with his character. Of low stature, thin,
with hollow cheeks, a long nose, a broad and wrinkled forehead, large
whiskers and a pointed chin. He was generally attired in a Spanish
doublet of green with slashed sleeves, with a small and peaked hat on
his head, surmounted by a red feather, which hung down his back. His
whole aspect recalled to recollection the Duke of Alva, the scourge of
the Flemings, and his actions were by no means calculated to remove the
impression.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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