Many rocks, here and further down, have been blasted away to improve
the navigation; and this has no doubt made the Strudel less dangerous
to appearance as well as in reality. Rocks used to be visible at low
water dividing the rapids into three, and these and the submerged
rocks were all named by the boatmen. They have, however, been removed
by modern engineering so that when the water is even low enough to
leave the bed of the Hössgang, or right branch of the river bare, no
Strudel rocks are visible. The Hössgang is said to have originated in a
farmer’s having cut an irrigating channel into the low-lying land that
now forms the island, and to have been enlarged by the force of the
impetuous current.
A little below the Strudel is the Wirbel, which was at one time more
dreaded as a “whirlpool” than the rapids we have just mentioned, but
the improvement of the navigation has done away with the second of
these twin terrors of the old-time boatmen and now we have to be told
when we are passing the one-time place of dread, for the tower-crowned
rock that divided the channel and formed the phenomenon was some years
ago entirely cleared away. More than sixty years ago Dr. Beattie
declared prophetically that “if the rock called Hausstein were blown
up it is probable that this whirlpool would entirely disappear.” How
effectually this has been the case the present-day visitor acquainted
with the old accounts of the terrible Wirbel will soon ascertain.
Before dealing with the Wirbel it may be interesting to quote Planché’s
account of his passage of this part of the river, describing it as it
was before the channel had been cleared:
“As soon as a bend of the river has shut out the view of Grein and its
château, a mass of rock and castle scarcely distinguishable from each
other, appears to rise in the middle of the stream before you. The
flood roars and rushes round each side of it; and ere you can perceive
which way the boat will take, it dashes down a slight fall to the
left, struggles awhile with the waves, and then sweeps round between
two crags, on which are the fragments of old square towers, with
crucifixes planted before them. It has scarcely righted itself from
this first shock, when it is borne rapidly forward towards an immense
block of stone, on which stands a third tower, till now hidden by the
others, and having at its foot a dangerous eddy. The boat flashes like
lightning through the tossing waves, within a few feet of the vortex,
and comes immediately into still water, leaving the passenger who
beholds this scene for the first time, mute with wonder and admiration.
These are the Scylla and Charybdis of the Danube, the celebrated
Strudel and Wirbel. The passage is made in little more than the time
it takes to read the above brief description, and I could scarcely
scratch down the outlines of these curious crags and ruins, before I
was whirled to some distance beyond them.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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