The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
It was on Saturday, June 27th, at about five o’clock in the afternoon
that we left Ulm, and the following day about noon we reached Lauingen,
having spent most of the forenoon in camp rigging our sails, properly
adjusting the tents, and doing a hundred other odd jobs which the
ownership of every boat entails. The Admiral, who had preceded the rest
of the fleet by an hour or more, was in the centre of an interested
group of natives when we hauled alongside at the landing, and all
Lauingen in its Sunday best was lounging near by, happy in the
entertainment which the arrival of the strange craft offered. The old
town walls are half hidden by excrescences of modern construction which
cling to them for their whole extent, sheltering a notable proportion of
the inhabitants. With this exception the place is not materially changed
since the sixteenth century, and still has to a very remarkable degree
the character of an old Dutch town both in details of construction and
in the general character of the domestic architecture. Most of the large
buildings are warehouses and residences combined, and there are few
front doors which are not provided with a little side window or squint
set in at an angle so that the street can be seen without opening the
door. All distinctive costume has been modernized out of the place. The
people look cheerful, active, and prosperous to a degree unusual in such
a remote town, and we were fain to believe that this vitality was due
to the leaven of those of the inhabitants who had been to America, not a
few of whom greeted us with an exaggerated Hoboken dialect. But the
modern spirit has not obliterated all the queer old customs, and Sunday
was busy with parades of turnvereins and sporting clubs with all the
pageantry common to the ancient guilds. In the midst of the festivities
a stately carriage drove into the market-place where the statue of
Albertus Magnus, the famous scholar of the thirteenth century, was
erected ten years ago in the shadow of the great tower with its sixteen
stories. It was a wonderful old vehicle, with broad leathern springs and
great hood, a huge rack behind piled high with luggage, a seat in front
occupied by a servant--a buxom country girl--and with a long pole like a
single shaft, to which one horse was attached in a sort of casual
fashion by a harness of the most antiquated and peculiar pattern. Under
the hood sat a young man who held the lines and guided the horse across
the square towards the inn, while the servant-girl, with folded arms,
occasionally nodded and smiled at friends in the multitude. We fancied
this must be some local dignitary, such was the grandeur and stateliness
of the turnout, but we found on inquiry that it was only a conveyance
from a neighboring town bringing a commercial traveller with his packs.
Truly, even this much-derided occupation has its agreeable features in
Bavaria.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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