At first the newly arrived foreigner is pointed at by all as one apart,
and considered an imbecile for preferring Livorno to Florence, or
Milano; every shopkeeper endeavours to charge him double prices, and for
every trifling service performed he is expected to disburse princely
tips. But the Tuscan heart is instantly softened towards him as soon as
he seems likely to become a resident; all sorts and conditions of men do
him little kindnesses without monetary reward; grave-faced monks will
call at his house and leave him presents of luscious fruits and
fresh-cut salads; and even his cabman, the last to relent, will one day,
with profuse apology for previous extortions, charge only his just fare.
The Italians are indeed an engaging people. It is because they are so
ingenuous, so contented, so self-denying, so polite yet so sarcastic,
that one learns to love them so well.
Along the Viale Regina Margherita, or esplanade--better known perhaps by
its ancient name, the Passeggio--are a number of baths, all frequented
by different grades of society, the one most in vogue among the
better-class residents and visitors being a handsome establishment with
cafe and skating-rink attached, known as Pancaldi's.
It was here, one evening soon after the mysterious death of Vittorina in
London, that two persons, a man and a woman, were sitting, watching the
ever-changing hues of one of those glorious blazing sunsets seen nowhere
else in the world but in the Mediterranean. The broad, asphalted
promenade, covered by its wide canvas awnings, was almost blocked by the
hundreds of gaily dressed persons sitting on chairs chattering and
laughing, and it seemed as though all the notable people of Florence and
Bologna had assembled there to enjoy the cool breeze after the terrific
heat of the August day. Along the Viale the road was sun-bleached, the
wind-swept tamarisks were whitened by the dust, and the town that day
had throbbed and gasped beneath the terrible, fiery August glare. But
here, at Pancaldi's, was light, happy chatter--in Italian of various
dialects, of course--a cool, refreshing breeze, and that indefinable air
of delicious laziness which Italy alone claims as her birthright.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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