Yet to many, mostly clubmen and idlers about town, the Bonciani is a
feature of London life. In the daytime the passer-by sees no sign of
activity within, and even at night the place presents an ill-lit,
paltry, and uninviting appearance. But among the few in London who know
where to dine well, the little unpretentious place halfway up Regent
Street, on the left going toward Oxford Street, is well known for its
unrivalled cuisine, its general cosiness, and its well-matured wines.
The interior is not striking. There are no gilt-edged mirrors, as is
usual in Anglo-Italian restaurants, but the walls are frescoed, as in
Italy, with lounges upholstered in red velvet, a trifle shabby,
extending down the long, rather low room. Upon the dozen little
marble-topped tables, with their snow-white cloths, are objects seen
nowhere else in London, namely, silver-plated holders for the
wine-flasks; for with the dinner here wine is inclusive, genuine Pompino
imported direct from old Galuzzo in the Val d'Ema beyond Firenza, a red
wine of delicate bouquet which connoisseurs know cannot be equalled
anywhere in London.
One evening, about a week after the meeting between Gemma and Tristram
at Livorno, nearly all the tables were occupied, as they usually are at
the dining hour, but at the extreme end sat two men, eating leisurely,
and taking long draughts from the great rush-covered flask before them.
They were Tristram and Romanelli.
Four days ago the pair had met late at night at the railway station at
Leghorn, and the one hearing the other demand a ticket for London, they
got into conversation, and travelled through together, arriving at
Victoria on the previous evening. During the three days of travelling
they had become very friendly, and now, at the Italian's invitation,
Tristram was dining previous to his return on the morrow to Livorno, for
at that period Italy was approaching England on the subject of a treaty,
and the correspondence between our Ambassador and the Foreign Office was
considerable, necessitating despatches being sent to Italy almost daily.
"So you return to-morrow?" Romanelli exclaimed, twirling his tiny black
moustache affectedly. To men his foppishness was nauseating; but women
liked him because of his amusing gossip.
"Yes," the other answered, sighing. "I expected to get a few days' rest
in London, but this afternoon I received orders to leave again
to-morrow."
"Your life must be full of change and entertainment," the young Italian
said.
"Rather too full," the other laughed. "Already this year I've been to
Italy more than twenty times, besides three times to Constantinople,
once to Stockholm, twice to Petersburg, and innumerable trips to
Brussels and Paris. But, by the way," he added, putting down his glass
as if a sudden thought had occurred to him, "you know Leghorn well, I
think you said?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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