France -- Description and travel; France -- Social life and customs
_May 1st._--Being sufficiently recruited we recommenced our journey;
our horses were tied with ropes, they looked quite wild; there were
three in each carriage. Calais is surrounded with fortifications. It
was very cold, disagreeable weather. Papa has a great aversion to east
winds, and dislikes Tallantire on that account, so we expected that
in France we should find a delightful climate; but alas! no sooner
had we arrived there, than we found both east and north winds. About
Calais was the ugliest country without exception I ever beheld; there
was scarcely a tree to be seen, no hedgerows, no pretty cottages,
everything looked dirty and miserable; there was a great deal of sand,
and the country looked exactly like a desert: I thought that if this
was a specimen of France, it was certainly a most charming place! We
passed through La Chaussée, a scattered village which skirts the road
for more than a mile; after ascending a hill we had a view of the
sea, but the weather was so thick that we could not see Dover Cliffs.
Our horses began to kick and seemed very restive, but on the driver's
dismounting and calling to them in a curious voice they were soon
quiet; after we had passed Wimille about a mile there was a succession
of hills as far as Boulogne: on one of them we had a view of the town
and the tower, which was commenced by Buonaparte to commemorate his
intended victories over England. We entered the town by an avenue of
trees; we met a procession in the Rue Grande in honour of the Duke of
Bordeaux's baptism, which was that day to take place; it was a general
fête throughout France. We stopt till the procession had passed. The
principal things I remarked were the pioneers with their long beards
and leather aprons, with hatchets over their shoulders. We went to the
Hôtel Angleterre, Rue de l'Eau; it is kept by an Englishman of the
name of Parker. We breakfasted on bouillon. Euphemia had been very
unwell all day: she had no appetite; so we and Miss Wragge went out to
buy some oranges for her; we asked several people, and enquired at a
number of shops, but all in vain, and we began to despair: we, however,
succeeded in getting some of an Englishman--he was the only person in
the town who sold them; he told us that he got them from England and
was obliged to pay a high duty; we only took four, as the smallest
were four sous apiece. After leaving Boulogne the country was a little
prettier; it had not that desert appearance that there was at the
sea-coast. Before we reached Saumur we saw a woman riding like a man,
wrong side before, on a horse, and a cow tied to the horse's tail; in
some places we saw women ploughing. About Saumur it was rather pretty;
there were rows of apple-trees on each side of the road, but on many of
them there was scarcely a leaf; not any of the trees were so far out as
they were in England. The country looks barren, as there are no hedges.
The villages in France are also very ugly--there are no gardens before
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