France -- Description and travel; France -- Social life and customs
_May 2nd._--It was a cold, disagreeable, rainy morning when we left
Montreuil; the country was not pretty; we went for a long way between
rows of trees, of which there was nothing left but the stumps; the
branches are cut off nearly all the trees, which makes them look like
broom-sticks. There were great numbers of beggars. At every village we
passed we were followed by men, women and children; if we gave to a
few they came in a double quantity up to the carriage-window; in one
village we counted about twenty. Begging seemed to be quite a trade:
in some places they brought baskets with cakes and flowers in them;
if we would not buy the flowers they threw them into the carriage. In
one place a little girl ran by the side of the carriage and said in
English 'How do you do? Very well thank you. Give me a penny, papa. How
do you do, my dear? I hope you're very well.' Papa asked them where
they had learned to speak English; they answered that the English had
lived there three years. In one of the villages where we stopped two
little girls came and danced by our carriage; they danced in a slow,
dull kind of way, and sung a tune something like our quadrilles. The
people were in general fat, plain and clumsy; their eyes were half
shut, they looked like the pictures one sees of Chinese. The women wore
a woollen or cotton petticoat with a body of a different colour, an
apron with shoulder-straps, and a coarse cotton handkerchief: some had
high caps on their heads, but most of them wore a checked handkerchief
done up like a toque, and long earrings; they had scarcely any hair to
be seen, which was very unbecoming. Their waists were generally very
short, and they looked quite a bundle; some of them wore sabots (wooden
shoes). The children[9] were heavy, ugly figures; they were quite
muffled up with clothes, and had very large stomachs, and their clothes
were tied over their breasts. They had not the liveliness of children
in England; they seemed so fat they could hardly walk,--like what in
Scotland they call _douce bairns_; they had all caps or handkerchiefs
on, even the babies. The men wore coloured woollen nightcaps; they were
much better-looking than the women. All the people looked untidy and
dirty. We passed through the Forest of Cressy, near which was fought
the celebrated battle which bears its name. We reached Abbeville about
one o'clock: we breakfasted at the Hôtel d'Angleterre, which is a very
good inn, but was rather in confusion when we were there. At Flixcourt,
where we stopped to change horses, we saw some people dancing on a
green; they told us it was on account of a wedding. In several of the
villages there were people standing at their doors eating bean-bread;
in one stage we tasted it; it was rather sour, but not bad tasting.
The people did not seem to make much use of their houses, as we often
saw them out of doors. It was above six o'clock when we arrived at
Amiens.[10] The entrance into the town is pretty. We went to the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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