France -- Description and travel; France -- Social life and customs
There were,
as usual, plenty of beggars; some of whom came and begged for bread
and wine. One of our postillions had a dog with him; he threw off his
gloves, the dog always picking them up and bringing them to him. Soon
after we had passed the village of Wavigny we were overtaken by a
violent storm of rain, hail, thunder and lightning, and as the storm
increased we were glad to take shelter in the post-house at St. Just.
Here we had a good deal of conversation with a servant girl; she told
us that they kept all the cattle in stables, and never out of doors.
Seeing some pigs that looked finer than usual in the farmyard, she said
that they had got them from a school where they brought up pigs. She
had a child in her arms which she offered to us all to kiss. When we
asked what it eat, she said soup and sweetmeats; she afterwards brought
it in some sugar and milk. The child had on a cotton cap trimmed with
black net: when she took it off to show us its hair, we told her how
much better it looked without it; she said 'yes, but that in France
they were afraid of their children catching cold if they went without
caps': which accounts for one's never seeing the children's neck, arms,
or hair. The people seemed to have been at dinner; there was a large
plate of cabbage, some curd, and apples on the table. Before we went
away mamma gave the girl a franc; she seemed hardly to know whether to
accept it or not, turned it about, and at last put it into her pocket
without saying a word. We were amused at one of our servants saying
'It's well we're off the _common_ now it rains' (owing to the want
of hedgerows and trees, the country did look more like a common than
anything else). When we set out the storm had abated, but the water
was running over the road in streams. A little further on the hail
was collected into large heaps, some of them nearly three feet long,
and above half a foot thick: these were lying on the sides of the
road, and over the fields for a quarter of a mile. We picked up some
small pieces: they were hail and mud stuck together; the hailstones
were bigger than large peas. A few miles from St. Just we had a very
fine view of Clermont; the town and castle are situated on a hill,
nearly surrounded by wood. It was about here that a little dog which
I fed with bread followed us for near half a mile. The country was
very pretty as we approached Chantilly: the wood of Hallate borders
the road on the left, in which we saw some wood pigeons; nearer the
town is a meadow, and canals are on each side of the road. In entering
Chantilly one of the horses got its leg over the traces, and horse
and man fell down beside the carriage; they, however, got up without
any accident. We drove to the Hôtel de Bourbon, an excellent inn. The
mistress is a nice, civil little woman; the master, who is also cook,
was twenty years in England. The rooms were very nicely furnished; in
the parlour was a jug full of lilies of the valley, which gave the room
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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