The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
the ascent of another peak of the “Rigi,” the “Schneideck.” We plunged
again into an ocean of clouds, nearly at hand’s reach.
When the clouds cleared away, we mistook forests for patches of green
grass, and mighty trees for thorn shrubs. It was as if we gazed down from
a balloon. An odd sensation, I had never experienced it before! When we
reached the _Kaltbad_ station, a group of yellow-haired children brought
us bunches of Edelweiss, a small white flower which grows on the top of
high mountains. _Kaltbad_ is famous by its splendid and spacious hotel,
full of bustle and movement. The vestibule was filled with English and
American tourists, walking about and talking. They all seemed to know
one another. The hotel has a splendid situation about two thousand feet
above the sea-level, and offers every possible comfort to its guests.
Notwithstanding its great altitude, it has every modern improvement,
even gas-works. We were far above the clouds, whilst we took our coffee
on the verandah. A storm broke out beneath us suddenly, peals of thunder
resounded and the rain began to fall in torrents, whilst above us the sky
was perfectly blue and the sun shone brightly.
On our way back to Lucerne, at the sight of the descent we had to make,
terror seized me. It looked the most break-neck thing in the world, and
it made me quite giddy to look down into the valley which is about nine
hundred feet below. The hill was so steep that you felt as if you were
going to pitch head first down it when you began to descend.
We got back to our hotel just in time for our well-earned dinner. The
next day, having put our heavy luggage in deposit at the warehouse, we
proceeded on our journey, and went to rove about Switzerland. In the
first place we are going to Interlaken. We have reached Alpnacht by
steamboat, and had great difficulties in getting seats in the brakes that
run to Interlaken, the passengers had to take them by assault. We waited
for our turn with a surprisingly long delay; the huge conveyances, with
six powerful horses put to them, were filling fast, and there were still
no places assigned to us. At last we were provided with a supplement in
the shape of a landau. There was room for four in our carriage, two
seats were already occupied by a very cross German lady and her daughter,
who looked at us as if they wished to order our instant execution. They
were most peevish companions and grumbled all the way that _der Papa_
had been placed into another supplementary conveyance. We made sustained
efforts at conversation, but only received rebuffs. Really, I quite
expected them to bite us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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