We proceeded at a brisk pace, changing horses only once. At twelve o’clock we stopped half-way in a little hamlet where luncheon had been prepared for us in an inn named _Au Lion d’Or_, whilst our horses were being changed. The table-d’hôte was served by pretty apple-cheeked waitresses dressed in the quaint costume of the Swiss peasant. They wore red skirts and black velvet bodices edged with little buttons of sparkling steel, with a flowered silk kerchief crossed over their breasts, and a golden cross on their necks. It was time for us to move on. When we returned to our carriage we found it had another occupant, the cross lady’s husband, _der Papa_, a little man with a big red moustache, who declared in a very rough tone that the seat belonged to him. It appears that it really was his place, and that his wife had exchanged seats of her own free will with two other German travellers. One of them immediately on starting, leisurely took off his coat, putting himself at his ease, and sat all the rest of the journey in his shirt-sleeves. The carriage went slowly winding up a long ascent. The road crept on between mountain slopes; close at hand the great form of the Jungfrau rose white to the sky. The ascent was difficult enough and when a specially steep bit was coming, the coachmen descended from their boxes to ease the horses up the rough track, walking by them and pulling vigorously at their long clay pipes. CHAPTER XXVI INTERLAKEN Close to Interlaken we took the train for about ten minutes. Interlaken is situated in a narrow pass encircled by a range of sparkling white mountains, behind which rises the majestic _Jungfrau_. This coquettish little town seems to be specially built for tourists, there are almost nothing but hotels in the place. The room which we occupied at the _Hôtel des Alpes_ was furnished Swiss style, with a cuckoo-clock and cupboards in the walls; there were antimacassars everywhere, and two blue vases on the mantlepiece with everlasting flowers; on a small table lay a bible and a hymn-book. Next morning when I looked out of our windows I saw a wonderful sight, the snow-capped _Jungfrau_ emerged from a mantle of clouds, a glittering dazzling mass with a background of shimmering snow-clad mountains. It is most fortunate that the summit unveiled to-day, as it is only seen on rare occasions.