The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
Our excursion to the Glaciers was arranged for eight o’clock, and the
conveyance that we had ordered the day before stood at the door of our
hotel, a mountain chariot with horses jingling with bells. We set off
in the gayest of spirits. Our driver cracked his whip, and away rolled
the carriage. Soon we were hurrying along the valley road, and passed
meadows strewn with wild flowers. We took three hours to mount to the
Hotel Eiger. On our way we met peasant girls with loaded baskets on
their heads. On the slopes villagers in large straw hats were cutting
down the grass, and women in bright-coloured skirts were working in the
potato-fields. Here comes a procession of carts laden with blocks of
ice procured from the Glaciers, dragged by patient sad-eyed oxen. In
the distance the echo of an alpine horn and the cries of some peasants
resounded. We overtook a peasant woman jolted like a basket on the
back of her mule. After a mile or two the road began to mount, and our
tender-hearted driver climbed down from the seat and walked at the
horses’ heads, driving off the troublesome flies which stuck to his
steeds. We crossed a tidy little village consisting of but one straggling
street. The roofs of the houses are covered with lathings, with big
stones laid over them, in order that the wind should not scatter them
about. Behind the rusty gates flaxen-haired children stared at us. On
the front of a tavern we saw the picture of a bear with the pleasant
inscription, “_Lait Frais_,” written underneath. Close by, on the front
of an hostelry, we read, “_Les voyageurs qui descendent chez nous seront
contents_”—(The tourists who put up at our house will be contented.) A
year ago there was fearful damage done in the valley we were driving
through, a huge block of rock fell down from the cliffs and hurled itself
into the valley, destroying a house which was taken clear away. We had to
pass that square stone that looked like a monument in the middle of the
road. We wanted to stop before a wicket with a finger-post pointing to
it with the inscription “_La Chute Noire, 25 centimes par personne_” but
our driver said it was not worth while as we could see this same Chine at
free cost a few paces off.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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