The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
My old friends the Levdics have taken their abode in Italy having been
expatriated by the doctors on account of their health. They spend the
winter months in Florence and the summer at Viareggio, a little sea-side
resort beyond Florence. We went to see them at Viareggio, and as we
knew nothing of their address, we had to go to the post-office for
information. Their home is a very pretty one, and the outlook from their
terrace on the Mediterranean and the neighbouring mountains is wonderful.
Next day we visited the “Certosa,” a convent situated on a high mountain
in the outskirts of Florence. The cloister opens hospitable doors to
strangers. We were gallantly received by the monks, who live here a
luxurious life. Each monk occupies an apartment of several rooms, with
a patch of garden. A tall, stout monk, in flowing white robes, served
as guide to us. He conducted us, clacking his sandals on the stone
flags, along white bare corridors paved with marble, which echoed to our
footsteps. We were taken into a large refectory resembling much more an
elegant Parisian restaurant. Then we went to the dormitory where the
monks sleep. When our guide ushered us into his bedroom, I stealthily
touched his bed and found it far too soft for a recluse. Before leaving
the cloister we bought a few bottles of the “certosa liqueur” fabricated
by the monks, for which we had to pay a considerable tax before entering
Florence. Feeling awfully hungry, we stopped half-way at an “Osteria”
when passing through the little town of Galuppi. It was very cool and
pleasant here after the dusty road, but our dinner had been uneatable:
we had a dish of macaroni swimming in oil, and a fish fried also in oil.
Ugh—the horror! Night was approaching and icy cold rain began to fall.
We returned to Florence famished and chilled to the very bone. And our
room at the hotel was so cold! You feel the cold much more abroad than in
Russia, where the houses are much better heated. How I long for our warm
Russian stoves!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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