The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple: From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.Loudon, J. C. (John Claudius)
History
The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple: From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.
Loudon, J. C. (John Claudius)
Pineapple
2. Pots for plants to fruit the
following season when
shifted in March 8½ 7
3. Pots for fruiting plants 11½ 10
I wish it to be understood that the above dimensions are only used for
full-sized plants, at their different periods: plants below the standard
must have less-sized pots in proportion.
Sometimes, he observes, hot-beds are made for the suckers. When that is
the case, they should be prepared at least fourteen days before the
suckers are taken off, in order that the violence of the heat may be
over: after the bed has been made ten days, it should be levelled, and
covered eight or ten inches with tan; and after this has lain four or
five days, in case the heat of the bed should not be violent, the pots
may be plunged into it.
In respect of temperature and water, he advises only a moderate heat,
and not much water, during the winter months; but an increase of both,
accompanied with more air, as the season advances.
There is nothing, he says, so prejudicial to the Pine-apple plant,
(insects and an over-heat of the tan excepted,) as forcing them to grow
by making large fires, and keeping the hot-house warm at an improper
season; which is injudiciously done in many hot-houses. It is
inconsistent with reason, and against nature, to force a tropical plant
in this climate in a cold dark season, such as generally happens here in
the months of November and December; and plants so treated will in time
show the injury done them: if large plants for fruiting, they generally
show very small fruit-buds with weak stems; and, if small plants, they
seldom make much progress in the beginning of the next summer.
As the length of the days, and power of the sun increases, the plants
will begin to grow, and from that time it will be absolutely necessary
to keep them in a regular growing state; for if young plants receive a
check afterwards, it generally causes many of them to go into fruit.
From the time they begin to grow they will demand a little water: once
in a week or ten days, as the weather may prove more or less favourable,
will be sufficient till the middle of March, which is the most eligible
season to shift them in their pots. If that work is done sooner, it will
prevent the plants from striking freely; and if deferred longer, it will
check them in their summer’s growth.
In this shifting I always shake off the whole of the ball of earth, and
cut off all the roots that are of a black colour, carefully preserving
such only as are white and strong. I then put such plants as are
intended to fruit the next season into second-sized pots with fresh
mould entire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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