The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple: From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.Loudon, J. C. (John Claudius)
History
The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple: From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.
Loudon, J. C. (John Claudius)
Pineapple
[1] The poor man had probably overheated himself, and comparing by
his feelings the temperature of the Pinery with his own, found the
latter much in its usual state; not knowing “a letter or a figure,”
of course, he could not take a hint from the thermometer.
The house was again stocked with plants, which Mr. Knight, in a paper
read to the Horticultural Society, in November last (1821), stated to be
in a most thriving condition; and a friend of ours who had made an
extensive gardening tour in the North and West of England, and who saw
the Pine plants at Downton Castle, also in November, declares they
appeared the most magnificent he had seen on his journey; “the plants,”
he says, “were stocky, and the leaves long, broad, and green; the
largest were in pots fourteen inches in diameter, and their leaves
reached to the glass.”
In the paper alluded to, Mr. Knight goes on to say, “I possess more than
sufficient evidence to enable me to assert with confidence, that, in the
culture of the Pine Apple, the bark bed, or other hot-bed, if the plants
be plunged into it, is worse than useless, after the scions, or crowns,
have emitted roots; and that the Pine Apple, when treated in the manner
I have recommended, is a fruit of most extremely easy culture.
“It is contended, in favour of the bark-bed, that the soil in
inter-tropical climates is warm, and that the bark-bed does no more than
nature does in the native climate of the Pine Apple. And if the bark-bed
could be made to give a steady temperature of about ten degrees below
that of the day temperature of the air in the stove, I readily admit
that Pine plants would thrive better in a compost of that temperature,
than in a colder. But the temperature of the bark-bed is constantly
subject to excess, and defect, and I contend, and can prove, that the
above-mentioned temperature is very nearly given in my stove. For the
temperature of the day being about 90° or 95°, and that of the night
70°, the mould in the pots will necessarily acquire nearly the
intermediate temperature of 80°. It is true, that two disturbing causes
are in action; the evaporation from the mould, and porous surface of the
pots, and the radiant heat of the sun. But these causes operate in
opposition to each other, and probably nearly negative the operation of
each other, as far as respects the temperature of the mould in the pots.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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