Who next? Is't Lambton, weak and pert and brisk,
And spitting in one's face, like Ginger-frisk?
Lord John, keep in _thy_ cork, for Heaven's sake do!
The strength and spirit of Champagne is thine,
Powers that will mellow down to generous wine;
Thy premature explosion I should rue.
The Oxford satirist thought Champagne of Lord John in the reign of
Queen Caroline. I think Champagne of him still, which the Satirist
assuredly does not, but we differ in opinion upon this point only
because we differ concerning the merits of the wine so called. I
request him to accept the assurance of my high consideration and
good-will, I shake hands with him mentally and cordially, and entreat
him to write more songs, such as gladden the hearts of true
Englishmen.
Dr. Clarke says in a note to his Travels, that Champagne is an
artificial compound: that “the common champagne wine drunk in this
country is made with green grapes and sugar; and that the imitation of
it, with green gooseberries and sugar, is full as salutary, and
frequently as palatable.” A Frenchman who translated these Travels
remarks upon this passage thus, _C'est sans doute par un sentiment de
patriotisme, et pour degoûter ses compatriotes du vin de Champagne,
que le Docteur Clarke se permet de hasarder de pareilles assertions.
Croit-il que le vin de Champagne se fasse avec du sucre et des raisins
verts, ou des groseilles, et qu'un semblable mélange puisse passer,
même en Angleterre, pour un analogue des vins d'Ai et d'Epernai?_ Dr.
Clarke, as it became him to do, inserted this remark in his next
edition, and said in reply to it, “It so happens that the author's
information does not at all depend upon any conjectures he may have
formed; it is the result of enquiries which he made upon the spot, and
of positive information relative to the chemical constituents ‘_des
vins d'Ai et d'Epernai_,’ from Messrs. Moett and Company, the
principal persons concerned in their fabrication.” It was in the town
of Epernai, whither the author repaired for information upon this
subject, that in answer to some written questions proposed to Mons.
Moett, the following statement was given by that gentleman touching
the admission of sugar into the composition of their wine:
“_Peut-être regarderoit-on en Champagne comme un indiscretion, la
réponse a cette question, puisque la révélation de ce qu'on appelle_
LE SECRET DU PROPRIETAIRE _pourroit nuire a la reputation des vins de
Champagne: mais les hommes instruits et éclairés doivent connoître les
faits et les causes, parcequ'ils savent apprecier et en tirer les
justes consequences._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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