I am obliged to send you a very brief despatch, for I 'm off to-morrow
for London, to make my bow at "F. O.," and kiss hands on my appointment.
I 'd have liked another week here, for the fishing has just come in, and
we killed yesterday, with two rods, eleven large, and some thirty small
trout. They are a short, thick-shouldered kind of fish, ready enough
to rise, but sluggish to play afterwards. The place is pretty, too; the
Swiss Alps at one side, and the Tyrol mountains at the other. Bregenz
itself stands well, on the very verge of the lake, and although not
ancient enough to be curious in architecture, has a picturesque air
about it. The people are as primitive as anything one can well fancy,
and wear a costume as ungracefully barbarous as any lover of nationality
could desire. Their waists are close under their arms, and the longest
petticoats I have yet seen finish at the knee! They affect, besides,
a round, low-crowned cap, like a fur turban, or else a great piece of
filigree sliver, shaped like a peacock's tail, and fastened to the back
of the head. Nature, it must be owned, has been somewhat ungenerous to
them; and with the peculiar advantages conferred on them by costume,
they are the ugliest creatures I 've ever set eyes on.
It is only just to remark that Mary Anne dissents from me in all this,
and has made various "studies" of them, which are, after all, not a whit
more flattering than my own description. As to a good-looking peasantry,
Bob, it's all humbug. It's only the well-to-do classes, in any country,
have pretensions to beauty. The woman of rank numbers amongst her charms
the unmistakable stamp of her condition. Even in her gait, like the
Goddess in Virgil, she displays her divinity. The pretty "bourgeoise"
has her peculiar fascination in the brilliant intelligence of her
laughing eye, and the sly archness of her witty mouth; but your peasant
beauty is essentially heavy and dull. It is of the earth, earthy; and
there is a bucolic grossness about the lips the very antithesis to the
pleasing. I 'm led to these remarks by the question in your last as to
the character of Continental physiognomy. Up to this, Bob, I have seen
nothing to compare with our own people, and you will meet more pretty
faces between Stephen's Green and the Rotunda than between Schaffhausen
and the sea. I 'm not going to deny that they "make up" better abroad,
but our boast is the raw material of beauty. The manufactured article we
cannot dispute with them. It would be, however, a great error to suppose
that the artistic excellence I speak of is a small consideration; on the
contrary, it is a most important one, and well deserving of deep thought
and reflection, and, I must say, that all our failures in the decorative
arts are as nothing to our blunders when attempting to adorn beauty. A
French woman, with a skin like an old drumhead, and the lower jaw of a
baboon, will actually "get herself up" to look better than many a really
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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