The first few miles of ascent were really pleasurable, for the snow
was hard, and the pace occasionally reached a trot, or at least such a
resemblance to one as shook the conveniency, and made the bells jingle
agreeably on the harness. The road, too, followed a zigzag course on
the steep side of the mountain, so that you saw at moments some of those
above and some beneath you, winding along exactly like the elephant
procession in Bluebeard. The voices sounded cheerily in the sharp
morning air, itself exhilarating to a degree, and this, with the bright
snow-peaks, rising one behind the other in the distance, and the little
village of Splügen in the valley, made up a scene strikingly picturesque
and interesting. There was a kind of adventure, too, about it all,
dearest Kitty, that never loses its charm for the soul deeply imbued
with a sense of the beautiful and imaginative. I fancied myself at
moments carried away by force into the Steppes of Tartary, or that I
was Elizabeth crossing the Volga, and I believe I even shed tears at my
fancied distress. To another than you, dearest, I might hesitate even if
I confessed as much; but you, who know every weakness of a too feeling
heart, will forgive me for being what I am.
My guide, a really fine-looking mountaineer, with a magnificent beard,
fancied that it was the danger that had appalled me. He hastened to
offer his rude but honest consolations; he protested that there was
nothing whatever like peril, and that if there were--But why do I go on?
even to my dearest friend may not this seem childish? and is it not a
silly vanity that owns it can derive pleasure from every homage, even
the very humblest?
We gradually lost sight of the little smoke-wreathed village, and
reached a wild but grandly desolate region, with snow on every side. The
pathway, too, was now lost to us, and the direction only indicated by
long poles at great intervals. That all was not perfectly safe in front
might be apprehended, for we came frequently to a dead halt, and then
the guides and the shovel-men would pass rapidly to and fro, but,
muffled as we were, all inquiry was impossible, so that we were left to
the horrors of doubt and dread without a chance of relief. At length we
grew accustomed to these interruptions, and felt in a measure tranquil.
Not so the guides, however; they frequently talked together in knots,
and I could see from their upward glances, too, that they apprehended
some change in the weather. Papa had contrived to cut some of the cords
with which they had fastened his muffles, and by great patience and
exertion succeeded in getting his head out of three horsecloths, with
which they had swathed him.
"Are we near the summit?" cried he, in English,--"how far are we from
the top?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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