The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
"Bridge Foot" was the name of the Southwark end of London Bridge. It was a
narrow lane leading to Southwark High Street, paved with knobbly stones
and walled in with tall houses. Bridge Foot is a thing of the past, and
London Bridge Station stands on the site of it. "High Street, Borough,"
too, is very different from not only mediaeval days, but even from coaching
times. The many old inns that used to front toward the street, dating
their prosperity back to the twelfth century, and their fabric to some
time subsequently to the fire of 1676, are nearly all either utterly
demolished, or are put to use as railway receiving offices. The "Queen's
Head" is gone; the "George," most interesting of all that remain here, is
threatened; the "Spur" is left, little changed; the "Half Moon" is still
the house for a good chop or steak and a tankard of ale; but the "White
Hart," where is it? Where the "Tabard," the "King's Head," the "Catherine
Wheel," the "Boar's Head," the "Old Pick my Toe," or the "Three Widows"?
In vain will the curious who pay pilgrimage to Southwark seek them. There
still are many cavernous doorways, stone-flagged passages, and great
courtyards; but nothing more romantic than railway vans is to be seen in
the most of them, and the yard where Sam Weller was first introduced to an
admiring public is quite gone.
The most romantically named of the Southwark inns now left is undoubtedly
the "Blue Eyed Maid," so named, possibly, in connection with Tamplin's
"Blue Eyed Maid" coach that used to run between Southwark and Rochester in
the twenties. The building, though, does not share the romanticism of its
name. Near it, let into the seventeenth-century brick frontage of No. 71,
High Street, is the old sign of the "Hare and Sun," the trade-mark of
Nicholas Hare; and this, together with the stone half-moon sign in the
yard of the "Half Moon Inn," is the sole relic of the many devices that
once decorated the street. The hop trade has taken almost undivided
possession of the place nowadays. The Hop Exchange is over the way, and
hop-factors are as frequently to be met with here as diamond-merchants in
Hatton Garden; and with their coming the old-fashioned appearance of
Southwark High Street is gone.
Even when Hogarth painted his "Southwark Fair," in 1733, the street was
suburban, and in the distance, seen between the crowds gathered round old
St. George's Church, are the hills and dales of Kent. The church was
pulled down in the following year, and the present building put up in its
place. The fair was suppressed in 1762.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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