The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and StudentBeech, Franklin
Science
The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student
Beech, Franklin
Dyes and dyeing -- Cotton
_Alizarine Violet._--Alizarine has the property of combining with iron
to form a dark violet colour, and advantage is taken of this fact to dye
what are called in the dyeing and calico printing trades alizarine
purples and lilacs, although these do not resemble in hue or brilliance
the purples and lilacs which can be got from the direct dyes. They have
not the importance which they formerly possessed, and but a mere outline
of two processes for their production will be given.
_Alizarine Purple._--_Process_ 1. (1) Boil with soda, (2) prepare with
Turkey red oil, (3) mordant by steeping in copperas liquor at 4 deg. Tw. for
twenty minutes, take out, allow to lie on stillages overnight, then wash
and dry. For deep purples it may be advisable to repeat these
treatments; for pale lilacs using them at half strength is advisable.
(4) Dye with 8 to 10 per cent. of alizarine blue shade, working as
described under Turkey red. The best results are obtained when 1 per
cent, of chalk is added to the dye-bath. (5) Soap as in red dyeing.
_Process_ 2. (1) Boil with soda, (2) oil with Turkey-red oil, (3) steep
in pyrolignite of iron (iron liquor) for one hour, then age by hanging
in the air. (4) Dye as before. (5) Soap.
Fine blacks are got if after oiling the cotton is treated with sumac or
tannic acid, then mordanted with iron and dyed with alizarine as usual.
_Chocolate Browns._--Fine fast chocolate browns can be got from
alizarine by using a mixed mordant of iron and alumina, either the
acetate or the sulphate. By varying the relative proportions various
shades can be obtained.
_Alizarine Orange_--Prepare the cotton as if for dyeing a Turkey red,
but use in the dye-bath 8 to 10 per cent. of Alizarine orange.
_Alizarine Blue_--The cotton is boiled three hours with 3 per cent.
ammonia soda at 30 lb. pressure, and then washed thoroughly. The boiled,
washed and hydro-extracted yarn is oiled with a solution containing from
1/4 lb. to 1-1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil, 50 per cent. for every gallon of
water. It is then wrung out evenly and dried for twelve hours at 150 deg. F.
_Tannin Grounding._
The oiled and dried cotton is worked three-quarters of an hour in a vat
containing a tannin solution (1 oz. per gallon). The cotton remains in
this liquid, which is allowed to cool off for twelve hours, then it is
hydro-extracted. Sumac turns the shade somewhat greener, which is
noticed especially after bleaching, therefore tannin is given the
preference.
_Chromium Mordant._
The cotton treated with tannin and then hydro-extracted is worked cold
for one hour in a vat containing a solution of chromium chloride at 32 deg.
Tw., and remains in this solution twelve hours. The cotton is then
hydro-extracted and washed directly; it is best to employ running water.
A special fixation does not take place. The cotton is now ready for
dyeing. The solution of chromium chloride and the tannin solution can be
used continuously, adding fresh liquor to keep the baths up to strength.
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