The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and StudentBeech, Franklin
Science
The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student
Beech, Franklin
Dyes and dyeing -- Cotton
_Dyeing_--For dyeing, water free from lime must be used. Water having
not more than 2.5 deg. hardness can be employed if it is corrected with
acetic acid, thereby converting the carbonate of lime into acetate of
lime. Very calcareous water must be freed from lime before use. The
dye-bath contains for 100 lb. cotton 15 lb. Alizarine blue paste (A R or
F, according to the shade desired), 35 lb. acetic acid (12 deg. Tw.), 15-1/2
lb. ammonia (25 per cent.), 2-1/4 oz. tannin. The cotton is worked a
quarter of an hour in the cold; the temperature is raised slowly to a
boil, taking about one hour, and the cotton is worked three-quarters of
an hour at that heat. Finally the cotton is washed and hydro-extracted.
The dyed and washed cotton is steamed two hours at 15 lb. to 22 lb.
pressure. Steaming turns the shade greener and darker, and increases the
fastness. After steaming the cotton it is soaped one or two hours at the
boil, with or without pressure. According to the quality of water
employed, 2 to 5 parts soap per 1,000 parts water are taken.
_Brown._--A fine brown is got by a similar process to this, if instead
of Alizarine blue, Alizarine orange is used in the dye-bath. A deeper
brown still if Anthracene brown, or a mixture of Anthracene brown and
Alizarine blue, be used.
_Claret Red._--Clarets to maroon shade of red are got by preparing the
cotton as for blue given above, then dyeing with alizarine.
_Logwood Black._--One of the most important colours that come under this
section is logwood black, the formation of which on the fibre depends
upon the fact that the colouring principle of logwood forms a black
colour lake with iron and also one with chromium.
There are many ways of dyeing logwood blacks on cotton, whether that be
in form of hanks of yarns, warps or pieces. While these blacks may be,
and in the case of hanks are, dyed by what may be termed an intermittent
process, yet for warps and piece goods a continuous process is preferred
by dyers. Examples of both methods will be given. As in the dyeing of
Turkey reds it is probable that no two dyers of logwood blacks quite
agree in the details of their process, there may be variations in the
order of the various baths and in their relative strengths. Typical
methods will be noted here.
=Dyeing Logwood Black on Yarn in Hanks.=--Operation 1. Sumacing: Prepare
a bath with 10 lb. sumac extract in hot water. Work the yarn in this for
half an hour, then allow to steep for six hours or overnight, lift and
wring. The liquor which is left may be used again for another lot of
yarn by adding 5 lb. sumac extract for each successive lot of yarn. In
place of using sumac the cheaper myrabolam extract may be used.
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