Very little difficulty will be met with in dyeing such light fabrics
as Italians, cashmeres, serges and similar thin textiles lightly woven
from cotton warp and woollen weft. When deep shades (blacks, dark
blues, browns and greens) are being dyed it is not advisable to make
up the dye-bath with the whole of the dyes at once. It is much better
to add these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals
during the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the
wool for the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the
cotton that it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too
much of the colour and then would come up too deep in shade. Never
give a strong boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the
boil which results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton.
#On Union Flannels.#--In this class of goods it is important that the
soft open feel of the goods be retained as much as possible, and for
this purpose no class of dyes offers so many advantages as the direct
colours. Only one bath being required, there is not the same amount of
manipulation needed in the dyeing operation, hence there is less risk
that the soft feel and woolly structure will be affected. As no
mordants are needed there is nothing to impart a harsh feel to the
fabrics.
#On Dress Goods, Suitings and Coatings.#--A large quantity of fabrics
for gentlemen's suits, coats and cloths in general are now made (p. 174)
from wool and cotton. Formerly the dyeing of these offered many
difficulties before the application of the direct dyes was properly
understood. Now, however the ease with which such dyes may be applied
has given considerable impetus to this class of goods, and the trade
has grown by leaps and bounds during recent years, and has been one
cause of the great cheapening of clothes which has occurred in the
same period. The dyeing of the goods with the direct colours offers
very little difficulty, and only requires that a little attention be
paid, particularly to goods in which the cotton either appears on the
surface forming a design, or is spun or twisted together with the
wool.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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