A good deal of shoddy is used in making the cheaper class of these
goods, and it is quite natural that such "artificial wool" behaves
differently from pure wool, not only with regard to its shade
resulting from mixing and working together differently dyed waste
wools, but also on account of its possessing a greater affinity for
all kinds of dye-stuff than raw wool; this in consequence of the
carbonisation and washing processes it has undergone, and also of the
mordants which the material may retain from previous processes.
Therefore (and especially in dyeing light shades on goods manufactured
of shoddy) only a small quantity of soda or borax is to be added to
the dye-bath and severe boiling is to be avoided. Wherever it is
possible goods which are to be dyed in light shades should be made
from the palest materials, and the dark qualities only used for goods
which are to be dyed in dark shades.
This rule can, of course, not always be adhered to. Quite often a
light and bright shade is to be dyed on comparatively dark material.
This cannot be achieved by simply dyeing it, the goods must be
stripped or bleached before dyeing. For this purpose either
energetically reacting, oxidising reducing agents are applied. Of the
former, bichromate of potassium is principally used. Boil the (p. 175)
goods for half to three-quarters of an hour with 3 to 5 per cent.
bichromate of potassium, 2 to 4 per cent. oxalic acid, and 3 to 5 per
cent. sulphuric acid, wash in a fresh warm bath charged with soda in
order to entirely neutralise the acid which has remained in the goods,
or else the wool would be dyed too deep a shade. In some cases
hydrosulphite has proved a useful reducing agent; it can be easily
prepared from ordinary bisulphite of soda in the following manner. Add
10 oz. ammonia (0.9 specific gravity) to a gallon of bisulphite of
soda, 32 deg. Tw.; then add slowly under a brisk stirring 10 oz.
zinc-dust, and let the entire mixture settle well, using only the
clear solution. Treat the goods from fifteen to twenty minutes in a
bath of 140 deg. F., to which first add at the boil 3/4 oz. acetic acid,
10 deg. Tw., per gallon water, and then 4 to 6 gallons clear hydrosulphite
solution per 100 gallons liquor. Then rinse very well and dye in the
usual manner; avoiding, however, too high a temperature. As on this
class of goods dark shades are mostly dyed, the goods need only very
rarely be stripped.
_Bright Yellow_.--Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S in a bath which contains
4 lb. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons of dye-liquor.
_Good Yellow_.--A very fine deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine
Gold, and 24 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow A in the same way as the last.
Here advantage is taken of the fact that while the Diamine Gold dyes
the wool better than the cotton the Diamine Yellow dyes the cotton the
deepest shade, and between the two a uniform shade of yellow is got.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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