The early English cotton industryDaniels, George W. (George William)
History
The early English cotton industry
Daniels, George W. (George William)
Cotton machinery; Cotton trade -- Great Britain
_Page 10, note 1._--In connection with the petition quoted by Mr. Price
the question arises as to how nearly it fixes the exact date of the
beginning of the fustian manufacture in England. The most definite
statement on the question the petition contains is the “20 years past”
since the trade was “found out” which, as Mr. Price mentions, would fix
the date about the opening year of the seventeenth century. Moreover,
this date seems to be a reliable one, owing to the fact that the
petitioners mention a patent granted in 1594 for sealing “all sorts of
new draperies” in which they imply that fustians made partly of cotton
were not included. According to their statement it would appear that
such fustians were not brought within the scope of a patent until 1613.
From the following quotation, however, it appears that fustians
were included in a patent granted in 1594: “Patent to the Alnagers
for sealing cloth from Midsummer 1594, to search and seal and exact
duties on all the new draperies as French serges, worsteds, fustians,
blankets, etc., made in England chiefly by strangers, which have
hitherto been exported free, no officers being appointed to search
them, and to seal such as are good and merchantable ware, and cut the
ends of those that are not; also settling the subsidies to be paid
thereon, which are granted to the patentees on payment of £66, 13s.
4d., yearly giving them the right of search, also a writ of assistance
therein” (_S.P.D. Eliz._, vol. ccxlix. 20). Assuming that the fustians
here mentioned were similar to those referred to in the petition, it
would appear that goods made partly of cotton were manufactured in
England in 1594, and that they had gained sufficient prominence to be
brought under supervision.
Support for this view may be found in some observations made in 1606,
upon an Act for the alnage of narrow draperies (_S.P.D. Add._, vol.
xxxviii. 104). These observations are interesting not only as regards
fustians but also in the indication given of the application of the old
type of regulations to new kinds of goods. In justification of the Act
the following among other reasons were set forth: That it was based
on the statutes for woollen manufactures, the reasons moving it and
the offences committed being of the same nature. Also upon necessity
because since the trades of making stuffs began, vices had crept in
which were causing the trades to decay. Also upon the interest of the
Crown and upon the right of His Majesty to take fees, “for as he is by
statutes interested in the alnage and subsidy of woollen goods--there
being at the time of making the same statutes no other stuffs made in
England--he should take like alnage and subsidy of things made within
this realm as his predecessors.” That the increased price per piece
would not be more than 3d. at the most; and that fustian weavers for
themselves had been petitioners to Her late Majesty for reformation of
abuses committed amongst them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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