The early English cotton industryDaniels, George W. (George William)
History
The early English cotton industry
Daniels, George W. (George William)
Cotton machinery; Cotton trade -- Great Britain
The reference to the fustian-weavers certainly suggests that fustians
would be included among the stuffs other than woollens, and if so there
can be little doubt that they were of the same character as those
to which the petition quoted by Mr. Price refers. Moreover, if the
fustian-weavers had reached a stage in the reign of Elizabeth--even in
the last year of her reign--when they could petition for reformation of
abuses, it is not unreasonable to suppose that a fustian-manufacture
would have commenced in 1594, and that the fabrics produced were
included in the patent granted to the Alnagers in that year.
Even this does not fix the date when the manufacture began, but earlier
dependable evidence is difficult to find. Before the end of the
sixteenth century two statutes had been passed relating to fustians,
but in the first, which appeared in 1495-1496 (11 Hen. VII., e. 27),
it was definitely stated that they were imported, although they were
sheared in this country. The statute also makes clear that the fustians
were at least composed partly of cotton. The second appeared in
1597-1598 (39 Eliz., c. 11) and was a continuance of the first. In this
statute no mention was made of the fustians being imported, nor was it
stated that they were manufactured in this country, but the weaving
of fustians was said to have “lately grown to more use than ever it
was before time.” This statement, and the fact that it was thought
advisable to re-enact the statute, may reasonably be taken to support
the view that, in the nineties of the sixteenth century, a manufacture
of fustians had commenced in England.
One other fact worth notice is that when a fustian manufacture had
certainly become established in the Manchester district much of the
linen-yarn used was imported from Ireland. This trade, however, was
carried on as early as 1543 (_ante_, p. 30), and a conjecture is
raised as to whether fustians may not have been made in the Manchester
district at that time, but under another name. In the _Victoria County
History of Lancashire_, ii., p. 296, it is stated that “the manufacture
of ‘fustians’ a mixture of wool and linen, and subsequently styled
‘cottons’” was in existence in the neighbourhood of Manchester at the
close of the fifteenth century. The identification of fustians with
cottons at this early date is tempting, and would explain much, but it
does not seem to be warranted by available evidence. As far as such
evidence goes, it appears that the beginning of the fustian-manufacture
has to be sought in the industrial changes of the second half of the
sixteenth century, and that, in England, fustians made partly of cotton
were a species of the “new drapery.”
_Page 10, note 2._--A patent was granted in connection with new
draperies in 1594 and was transferred to the Duke of Lennox after the
accession of James I. (Price, _ibid._).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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