The early English cotton industryDaniels, George W. (George William)
History
The early English cotton industry
Daniels, George W. (George William)
Cotton machinery; Cotton trade -- Great Britain
By the last years of the sixteenth century the problem of regulation
was still unsolved, and apparently it was decided that even more
vigorous measures should be adopted. In 1597 an Act[37] was passed
“against the deceitful stretching and tentering of Northern cloth,”
and, in the preamble, it was stated that notwithstanding the many
good and wholesome laws enacted hitherto, the cloths had grown worse
and worse, were more stretched and strained, and were made lighter
than ever before. The remedy adopted was to prohibit all tenters or
engines for stretching cloth in the northern counties, and the Justices
of Peace had to appoint overseers to enforce the regulations as to
length and weight. In the year following the enactment of this statute
a report was sent to the Council,[38] in which it was stated that,
although sundry letters had been written to the Justices of Peace in
Lancashire and Yorkshire, pointing out their duty in enforcing the
statute, the regulations which it contained had not been observed.
Consequently a recommendation was made that two honest men be appointed
to inspect the making of kersies, northern dozens and cottons, with
power to enforce the regulations. In the last year of Elizabeth’s reign
it was found necessary to pass another similar statute with application
to the whole country.[39]
[Footnote 37: 39 Eliz., c. 20.]
[Footnote 38: _S.P.D. Eliz._, vol. cclxix. 45.]
[Footnote 39: 43 Eliz., c. 10.]
The mere record of the futile attempts to enforce these statutes is
sufficient proof that they were inappropriate to the situation. During
the sixteenth century considerable changes were taking place in the
English cloth industry. It was the period when the “New Drapery” was
being introduced and attempts were being made to regulate it on the
lines of the “Old Drapery.” The regulations never corresponded with the
facts of the case and their effective enforcement was impossible.[40]
It was not only the length, breadth, and weight of the cloths that
caused difficulty. What were regarded as inferior materials were being
introduced into them, something which the statute of 1551 attempted
to cope with. This was not a new grievance at that time, but in the
sixteenth century it may have had a new significance. In 1606 an
attempt was made to distinguish between cloths made of perfect wool and
those into which Flocks, Thrums, and Lambs’ Wool entered, by insisting
that the latter should have a black yarn on the one edge and only a
selvedge on the other. Afterwards, no person had to put any Hair,
Flocks, Thrums, or any yarn made of Lambs’ Wool or other deceivable
thing or things, in or upon any Woollen Cloth, Half-Cloth, Frieze,
Dozen, Bays, Penistone, Cotton, Taunton Cloth, Bridgewater, Dunster
Cotton, or any other cloth, upon pain of forfeiting such cloth.[41]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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