The hall is high and spacious. Four or five colossal gilded statues
dominate the background. The largest is seated on a throne in the
middle. His eyes and mouth are closed, his feet drawn under him, and
one hand, held in the “gesture of witness,” points to the earth. Thus,
under the sacred tree, the perfect Buddha conceived himself. Escaped
from the wheel of life, he participates in his own Nirvana. Others
perched above him, with downcast eyes, contemplate their navels. These
are the Heavenly Buddhas seated on lotus flowers. They are Avalokhita,
Amitabha, the Buddha of the Light without Measure and the Buddha of
the Paradise of the West. At their feet the bonzes pursue their rites.
They have gray robes; large, somewhat rust-colored mantles attached
to the shoulder like togas; leggings of white linen; and, some of
them, a sort of mortar-board on their heads. Others bare their scalps,
where the white marks of _moxas_ show the number of their vows. One by
one, murmuring, they file past. The last who passes is a boy of twelve
years. By a side hall I reach the third court and see a third temple.
Four priests perched on stools are ranged inside the door. Their shoes
are left on the earth before them; and without the need of feet,
detached, imponderable, they are seated on their own thoughts. They
make no movement. Their mouths, their closed eyes, are one with the
creases and wrinkles in the wasted flesh of their faces, like the scar
of the navel. Consciousness of their inertia is sufficient for their
ruminating intelligence. Under a niche in the middle of the hall, I
distinguish the shining limbs of another Buddha. A confused company of
idols is ranged in the obscurity along the walls.
Returning, I see the central temple from the rear. High on the wall
of an embrasure a many-colored tympan represents some legend among
olive-trees. I re-enter. The back of the repository where the colossi
are exposed is a great painted sculpture: Amitofou mounting to Heaven
amid flames and demons. The setting sun, passing through the trellised
openings high in the wall, sweeps the somber boxlike hall with
horizontal rays.
The bonzes continue the ceremony. Kneeling now before the colossi,
they are intoning a chant, while the celebrant, standing before a bell
shaped like a cask, leads the measured beat of drums and bells. At each
verse he clashes the drum, drawing from its brazen belly a re-echoing
vibration. Then, facing each other in two lines, they recite some
litany.
The side buildings are the dwellings of the priests. One of them
enters, carrying a pail of water. I glance into the refectory where the
bowls of rice are placed two by two on the empty tables.
I am again before the tower.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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