On narrow benches, their heads helmed with flowers and pearls, clothed
in wide blouses of silk and full embroidered trousers, motionless, with
their hands on their knees, the prostitutes wait in the street like
beasts at a fair, in the pell-mell and the dust of passers-by. Beside
their mothers and dressed like them, also motionless, little girls are
seated on the same bench. Behind, a flare of petrol lights the opening
to the stairway.
I go. And I carry the memory of a life congested, naïve, restless;
of a city at the same time open and crowded, a single house with a
multifold family. I have seen the city of other days, when, free of
modern influences, men swarmed in an artless disorder; in fact it is
the fascination of all the past that I am leaving, when, issuing out
of the double gate in the hurly-burly of wheelbarrows and litters, in
the midst of lepers and epileptics, I see the electric lights of the
Concession shine.
GARDENS
It is half-past three: white mourning.[A] The sky is veiled as if with
white linen. The air is moist and raw. I go into the city. I am looking
for gardens.
I walk in a black gravy. Along the ditch whose crumbling border I
follow, the odor is so strong that it is like an explosive. There is
the smell of oil, garlic, filth, ashes, opium, and offal. I walk amid
a free and easy people who are shod with thick buskins or sandals of
straw, wearing long hoods or skullcaps of felt, their silk or linen
trousers tucked into leggings.
The wall winds and undulates, and its coping, an arrangement of bricks
and open-work tiles, imitates the back and body of a crawling dragon.
A sort of head terminates it, from which floats a cloud of smoke. This
is the place. I knock mysteriously at a little black door which opens.
Under the overhanging roofs I cross a succession of vestibules and
narrow corridors. I am in a strange place.
It is a garden of stones.... Like the ancient Italian and French
designers, the Chinese have understood that a garden, from the fact of
its inclosure, must be complete in itself and harmonious in all its
parts. Only so will nature adapt herself to our moods, and only so, by
a subtle harmony, will the master feel at home wherever he looks. Just
as a landscape does not consist simply of its grass and the color of
its foliage, but is distinguished by its outlines and the slope of the
ground, so the Chinese literally construct their gardens with stones.
They are sculptors instead of painters. Because it is susceptible of
elevation and depth, of contours and reliefs, through the variety of
its planes and surfaces, stone seems to them a more suitable medium for
creating a background for Man than are plants, which they reduce to
their normal place of decoration and ornament.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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