Chinese cities have neither factories nor vehicles. The only noise that
can be heard, when evening comes and the fracas of trade ceases, is the
human voice. I come to listen for that; for, when one loses interest
in the sense of the words that are offered him, he can still lend them
a more subtle ear. Nearly a million inhabitants live here. I listen to
the speech of this multitude far under a lake of air. It is a clamor
at once torrential and crackling, shot through with sudden abrupt rips
like the tearing of paper. I am sure one can distinguish now and then
a note and its modulations, as one does a chord on a drum, by putting
his fingers on the right places. Has the city a different murmur at
different times in the day? I propose to test it. At this moment it is
evening. They are volubly publishing the day’s news. Each one believes
that he alone is speaking. He recounts quarrels, meals, household
happenings, family affairs, his work, his commerce, his politics. But
his words do not perish. They carry--part of the innumerable additions
to the collective voice. Shorn of their meaning they continue only
as the unintelligible elements of the sound which carries them;
utterance, intonation, accent. As there is a mingling of sounds, is
there a blending of the sense? And what is the grammar of this general
discourse? Guest of the dead, I listen long to the murmur, the noise
that the living make afar!
Now it is time to return. The pines, between whose high shafts I pursue
my road, deepen the shadows of night. It is the hour when one commences
to see the fire-flies, hearth fires of the grass. As in the depth of
meditation an intuition passes, so quickly that the spirit can perceive
merely a glimmer, a sudden indication; so this impalpable crumb of fire
burns, and in the same moment is extinguished.
THE ENTRANCE TO THE EARTH
Rather than assail the escarpments of the mountain with the iron point
of my stick I should prefer to see, from this low, flat plain across
which I wander, the mountains seated around me like a hundred ancient
men in the glory of the afternoon. The sun of Pentecost illumines the
earth, swept and garnished and impressive as a church. The air is so
cool and so clear that it seems as if I walked naked. All is peace. One
hears on all sides, like the cry of a flute, the notes of chain-pumps
in unison, drawing water from the fields (three by three, the men and
women beat upon the triple wheel, their arms hooked to the beam, their
laughing faces covered with sweat), and a friendly territory opens
before the steps of the walker.
I measure with my eyes the circuit I must follow. I know how, from the
top of the mountain, the plain with its fields will resemble an old
stained-glass window with irregular panes set in a network of lead. By
straight footpaths of the earth that frames the rice-fields, I finally
begin on the paved way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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