Rows of other wretches are ranged on both sides of the highway, which
is thronged at this outlet of the city with pedestrians, messengers,
and wheelbarrows bearing women and their bundles. The oldest and
grossest of the men is called the King of the Beggars. They say that,
crazed by the death of his mother, he carries her head about with
him concealed in his clothes. The last that I notice, two very old
women, wrapped in swathings of rags, their faces black from the dust
of the roads where they prostrate themselves at times, sing one of
those plaints broken with long sighs and hiccoughs, which are the
professional expressions of despair among these outcasts. I can see the
pagoda afar off between thickets of bamboo; and, crossing the fields, I
take a short cut toward it.
The country is a vast cemetery. Everywhere there are coffins; on
hillocks covered with withered reeds, and in the dry grass, are rows
of little stone posts, mitered statues, or lions of stone, marking the
ancient sepulchers. Individual wealth or burial associations have built
these tombs surrounded by trees and hedges. I pass between a place
for animals and a pit filled with the skeletons of little girls whose
parents wished to be rid of them. They have choked it to the mouth. It
will soon be necessary to dig another.
The day is warm, the sky clear, I walk in the light of December.
The dogs see me, bark, and run away; I reach and pass the villages with
their black roofs; I cross the fields of cotton and beans; I cross the
rivulets by the old worn bridges, and, leaving on my right the great
empty buildings of a deserted powder-mill, I arrive at my goal. I hear
a noise of bells and a drum.
Before me is a tower of seven stories. An Indian with a golden turban,
and a Parsee wearing a plum-colored one twisted like a stovepipe, are
entering it. Two other figures move about on the highest balcony.
I must speak first of the pagoda itself.
It is composed of three courts and three temples, flanked by accessory
chapels and lesser buildings. Religion here does not, as in Europe,
barricade and segregate in loneliness the mystery of a faith walled
about by dogma. Its function is not to defend the absolute against
exterior aspects. It establishes a certain atmosphere; and, as
though suspended from heaven, the structure gathers all nature into
the offering that it constitutes. Multifold, all upon one level, it
expresses Space by the relations of height and distance between the
three arches of triumph or the temples which are consecrated to them;
and Buddha, Prince of Peace, inhabits it with all the gods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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