The Education of American GirlsBrackett, Anna C. (Anna Callender)
General
The Education of American Girls
Brackett, Anna C. (Anna Callender)
Women -- Education -- United States
It is not enough to say to the dressmaker, "Make it perfectly easy and
comfortable," and then trust to her judgment that it will be all right.
The only test for a girl's clothing, as to tightness, should be, "Can
you take a good, full breath, and not feel your clothes?" If so, they
are loose enough; if not, let them out, and keep on letting them out
till you can. Nor is there the slightest need that this kind of dressing
involve "dowdiness," or "slouchiness," a characteristic abhorrent to
every true woman. Every woman expresses her character in her dress; and
where "slouchiness" exists, it means something more than comfortable
dressing. It means a lack of neatness and order, a want in the ideas of
suitability. It is sure to manifest itself in other ways, and will not
be prevented by dresses never so tightly fitting.
The next thing to be considered is the place of proper support for the
voluminous clothing below the waist. This gives a certain definite
weight in pounds and ounces larger than is generally supposed, and as a
result of the law of gravitation, it would all fall if the tendency were
not counteracted by a corresponding pressure. This pressure is almost
universally being sustained by our girls at the hips, and it comes just
where the trunk has no longer, except in the spinal column, any bony
support, depending alone on the yielding muscles.
It is idle to assert that the corsets support the dependent weight. In
the old times, when corsets had shoulder-straps, this assertion might
have had a shadow of truth, but now, when they never have them, their
weight must simply be added to the total amount of weight of skirts, to
find the number of pounds of downward pressure. They serve only as a
kind of fender to prevent the tightly tied skirts from cutting into the
muscle, and therefore, conducing to prevent discomfort, only serve to
delude the girl into the belief that they hold up her skirts. This
weight, evidently, should be borne by the shoulders, where the
firmly-jointed skeleton, upheld from below, offers a firm and safe
support. But give a girl shoulder-straps, and she finds the pressure
over so small an area on the shoulders unbearable, and besides, the
process of dressing becomes then a matter of almost as much complication
as the harnessing of a horse, when some inexperienced person has done
the unharnessing. Suspenders, though answering the purpose perfectly for
men, will not answer for women, and even when made especially for them,
are found inconvenient. The girl should wear, over her corsets, an
under-waist, fitted precisely like the waist-lining of a dress as to
seams and "biases," or "darts." It should be made of strong shirting,
neatly corded at neck and "arm-seyes," and finished around the waist by
a binding of the width of an ordinary belt, set up over the waist so as
to have three thicknesses of cloth for buttons. To these buttons, four
or more in number, the skirts should be hung. The weight comes then on
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account