The great points of view are on the other side. The most famous is
the Piz Languard, reached by a beautiful walk. Another is the
Muotlas Muraigl to which we may mount by a cable railway from the
station of Punt Muraigl at the junction of the lines from Samaden and
St. Moritz. Hence we have a splendid prospect: in front lie the
Upper Engadine lakes, like successive reaches of a broad blue river;
to the right is the pinnacled ridge of the lower Julier range; to the
left the Rosegg valley, with the glaciers and peaks at its head;
still more to the left the view in Plate I., the steep northern slope
of the Chalchaign, and the shining summits and far-flung snows of the
Bellavista, Palü, and Cambrena peaks.
Fine, too, is the prospect from the Schaffberg, where is a memorial
to Giovanni Segantini, who for some time before his death was
occupied in painting this magnificent view. Here, one winter day in
1899, he succumbed, in face of the great landscape that had cast its
spell on him.
Could kindliest fortune fairer parting send?
The Rosegg and Morteratsch glaciers are Pontresina's two main
entrances to the high Alpine world, that radiant world which lies so
near us in the Upper Engadine, yet seems as far from soil and smirch
of lower earth as though it had just descended out of heaven from
God. Plate V. gives the former: in front is the pleasant, primitive
little inn; beyond it the {30} glacier, for a long time receding, has
left the usual mean and desolate disorder; farther are the combined
glaciers of the Rosegg and Tschierva; between them is the rocky
Aguagliouls, a curious reserve of vegetable life on which, it is
said, two hundred different specimens of plants have been counted; in
the height of summer sheep are driven across the glacier to graze
there; in the background, from right to left, are the Caputschin and
Mongia peaks, the broad gap of the Fuorcla Glüschaint, the Piz
Glüschaint, the double summit of la Sella, and, hidden in the clouds,
Piz Rosegg.
The Morteratsch glacier is Pontresina's other gateway to the great
white world. The railway has a station within a short distance of
it. A path mounts hence to the beautiful series of falls by which
the Bernina descends among purple rocks from the upper reach of its
valley. About a mile after this path joins the high-road are the
three quaint Bernina Houses, a typical old mountain inn, evidently
prepared to be buried in snow through the winter. Behind them stands
Piz Alv, a huge bare cone of limestone, sole memorial of the teeming
life of the sea that once covered the granite and schist around. A
striking contrast to its dusty bareness is the ruddy granite of the
neighbouring Piz Lagalb, clothed with hardy vegetation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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