On entering the village we see the interesting Chesa Gregori-Gilli, dated 1551. On its front are the Rhaetian wildman and St. George, with the inscription 'Evviva la Grischa,' followed by a precept that at some periods of its history la Grischa has sadly needed 'Res parva concordia crescit, maximæ discordia dilabuntur.' In the central square is a fine house of the Plantas. On the neighbouring Tuor Planta an inscription records that it was destroyed by fire in 1499 through the patriotic self-sacrifice {35} mentioned above, and here again is an exhortation to dwell together in unity. [Illustration: 'SUM EWIGEN SCHNEE'] These inscriptions point the moral of the municipal history of Zuoz. Nowhere raged more fiercely the fire of faction that in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries bid fair to bring to naught the independence that the heroism of a nobler generation had so hardly won. Yet a saving seed was left. The picturesque Chesa Juvalta, which preserves many portraits of past Juvaltas in the next village of S-chanf,* recalls the pleasing legend that when the insanity of civil strife was at its highest, and the streets of Zuoz were red with the blood of its citizens, the women of the town, headed by Anna Juvalta, threw themselves with tears and prayers between the maddened combatants, and declared that they should only strike one another by passing over the bodies of their wives and daughters. * I will not attempt to phoneticize the peculiar _ch_ of Romanic orthography. English spelling has been styled an invention of the Father of Lies, but it is nothing to the masterpiece of misrepresentation that the alphabet has achieved in Romanic. In Engadine place-names I have preferably used the native Ladin form, except in the many cases where the German form seemed naturalized in English. Relentless criticism has, I believe, relegated Anna to the limbo of unaccredited immortals that every day becomes more crowded, but I trust it will be long ere the souls of young Engadiners cease to be nourished on the exploded legends of their country. It matters little that they be not history. There are {36} legends that are truer than history in that they embody the spirit without which the external facts of history would not have been. William Tell may not have shot his arrow at Altorf, nor Anna Juvalta stood between the armed ranks at Zuoz, but had there not been many men and women of the temper of Tell and Anna the Forest Cantons would still be ruled by aliens, and Rhaetian independence would long ago have foundered in anarchic bloodshed.