* 'At the commencement of the great schism the Government of the Three Leagues, after listening to incontrovertible arguments on both sides in a theological conference at Ilanz in January, 1526, decided to be perfectly neutral, leaving individual consciences free, and allowing each commune to decide for itself to which persuasion it would officially belong. Thus the people settled for themselves the question that concerned them so deeply, which in the rest of Europe was mainly decided over their heads by rulers often actuated by considerations far from religious' ('Upper Engadine,' p. 168). On the right below Ramuosch a fine waterfall marks the entrance to the pent, pine-clad Val d'Assa. In a cliff some two hours up is a stalactite cavern and a spring known as Fontana chi staina, 'the spring that stands still.' Its final channel is probably a natural siphon that empties a hidden reservoir three times a day, and ceases to flow while it is refilling. In a fertile widening of the Inn Valley is the village of Strada and, perched high above, that of Tschlin. Dark woods clothe the right bank of the Inn, now swollen by the melting of many glaciers to a considerable stream. Then we come to Punt Martina, in German Martinsbruck, standing amid grand scenery at the end of the Engadine. By the iron bridge beyond it we pass into Tirol. In front the road winds up wooded slopes, and then climbs and cuts its way among the slate rocks of the romantic Finstermünz {45} Pass. On the left a new road drops down along the Swiss side of the Novella gorge to Alt Finstermünz, far below, where antiquated fortifications cling to the sheer cliffs, under which the straitened stream flows swift and deep. Old wooden bridges from either jealous bank meet in the vaulted gangway of a square tower set on a submerged rock in midstream. V THE NATIONAL PARK