We commence next day's walk by mounting steeply on the east to the
Murter Alp, a plateau of flowery pasture buttressed round with
precipices. Here we have a survey of the upper Val Cluoza and its
three savage head-valleys: Diavel, Sassa, and Valetta. Descending
eastward to the old sheep-pastures of Laschaida, we come to the first
outposts of forests, hoary, battered larch, which, as the path drops
steeply down, gradually give place to fir. At the bottom we emerge
on the pastures of Praspol by the turbid Spol, one of the largest
tributaries of the Inn, rich in trout, and a last refuge of the
hard-bested otter, who can now live and multiply there in peace,
doubtless giving a wide berth to the right bank for the two miles
along which the Spol forms the Park boundary. It will be interesting
to note if fish do the same; the right of fishing from this bank is
reserved to the commune of Zernez. We may cross {54} the stream by
the Punt Praspol, leaving the Park for a while, or we may take on the
right a lonely and bewitching forest path that runs above the left
bank of the Spol, crosses it by the Punt Purif, and descends to the
point where, half an hour below Fuorn, the post-road re-enters the
Park.
Those not in a hurry will do well to spread this walk, with
digressions that will readily suggest themselves, over the second
day, passing the night at Fuorn. If pressed for time, however, an
early start from the blockhouse will enable good walkers to get on to
S-charl or Tarasp. A quarter of an hour above Fuorn on the road to
the Pass, by the second bridge, which crosses a gully, a footpath on
the left through the forest brings us into the Val del Botsch,
abounding in chamois, and ascends steeply to the Fuorcletta, a low
saddle between towering dolomite peaks. Looking back as we ascend is
an ever-widening prospect of serried summits and savage gorges. Very
striking, too, as we thread the stony trough, is the contrast between
the stark desolation around and the soft rich hues of the Lower
Engadine, with a crowded host of peaks rising behind and about them.
The path then leaves the Park, and is for a while in the
Verbindungsgebiet, descending to Alp Plavna, turning to the left,
ascending, and re-entering the Park at the pleasant col of Sur il
Foss; then descending the Val Minger, it strikes the Clemgia a couple
of miles below the lone, forest-begirt hamlet of S-charl. The {55}
once busy iron-smelting village has dwindled to a dozen houses with
their little church on a holm of the rushing Clemgia. The name of
the secular Jurada forest on the left records an ancient reserve
banned to axe and saw as a protection from avalanches. To the south
the wild and beautiful valley is closed by the snow-flecked dolomite
peaks of the Pisoc. A half-day's walk down the right bank of the
stream, along the eastern edge of the Park, takes us by the Clemgia
Gorge to Tarasp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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