A little farther on is the Anglican church, a massive little building
in the grey-green gabbro of the neighbourhood. The tower seems to
have been suggested by that of the half-ruined church of San Gian, an
assimilation of local style that cannot be too highly commended. An
English church on the Continent, like the Englishman himself, his
clubs, customs, and amusements, is apt to have an air of
extraterritoriality. Who has not felt a shock on revisiting some
beloved mountain haunt to find that since he was last there the
church of his fathers, looking as though it had just stepped from a
suburb of London, had added its note of incongruity to those that
hotels and bazaars had accumulated on the devoted spot?
The chalybeate waters of St. Moritz have been known from early times.
In addition to the original spring there are now two others, one of
which wells up in the bed of the Inn. Bubbles of carbonic acid gas
that rise to the surface of the lake where the river enters it are
thought to indicate another spring below; in fact, the whole mass of
crystalline rock that rises into the peaks of Rosatz and Ova Cotschna
is probably a vast laboratory, in which the water that falls from
heaven and filters down to the river and the lake is charged with
healing virtues.
[Illustration: PIZ ALBANA AND PIZ JULIER IN WINTER.]
Its efficacy, no doubt, is largely due to the {17} co-operation of
the air, and to the ample provision made for the comfort and
distraction of health-seekers. Sportsmen, artists, naturalists, and
whatnot find wherewithal to occupy them, while those who wish to
lounge and dream, who are content for a while simply to exist, have
environment to their hearts' content: sleeping lakes and leaping
streams, slopes of pasture starred with flowers, solemn sanctuaries
of forest, wildernesses filled with the large companionable
loneliness of the hills. And all this enchantment shines in the rare
mountain air with a vividness that seems scarcely real. Indeed, it
is hard to set limits to the many and magical effects of altitude on
body and spirit. Though there may be no theological ground for the
statement by which it is said encouragement is sometimes given to
invalids at St. Moritz that in the worst event they are nearer heaven
than in any other health resort of Europe; yet, short of that
unnegotiable contingency, there are undoubted advantages at 6,000
feet above the sea not to be found at lower levels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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